Underwater Trucking -- now what do I do?

I didn't know the Ranger came with the U-Boat option.

Drop the tank and drain it. There will be residual fuel/water in the lines from the tank to the engine bay as well.

Trans, and rear diff should be changed to be sure, and probably repack the front wheel bearings, to be safe. Rear diff should take 75-85W gear oil.

Definitely change the oil. Don't run the engine until you do. Oil is cheap, main / rod bearings are not.

Check to be sure all filters are clean and dry. Change fuel filter too. Also, sometimes submerging electrics while they're running dramatically shortens their life. Starter, alternator, etc.

Good luck, Spdloader

All good advise. Left out one thing though, when you drian tank and fuel system, add several can of dry gas to tank when you refill it to absorb any water still present in system. (Water cannot mix/bind with gas but it can with alchol and alchol can then bind with gas and pass through system)

----------------- The SnoMan

I wonder what the odds are of me just putting a bunch of dry gas in the tank and running the water out that way? I really have no idea how much water is in the tank. It was never completely submerged. Also, it will start but sputter and die, so I'm thinking that there's not a whole lot of water in the tank, but just enough to keep it from running right.

Any danger to putting in several cans of drygas and trying it? I'm dealing with a very simple fuel system anyway.

Thanks,

CJB

Since you don't know the quantity of the water in the system, you should drain the tank. You run the risk of a hydro-lock if you don't. That'll be even more expensive, could cost you a motor.

Spdloader

If you took in enough water to kill the engine, where do you think that water went? Your engine could be sputtering because one or more of the rods is a little shorter than average.

I don't see how you'd get much water in the tank from this. Before you drop the tank, wouldn't you want to make some kind of determination of whether you need to do that?

The truth is, if it wasn't for the vapor vents, you could submerge the whole tank and not get water in it.

That makes no sense.

If you pump enough water into just one cylinder, the water won't compress, and something mechanical will give, usually a connecting rod.

Since he doesn't know how much water is in the tank, it'd be better to drain and dry the tank and lines.

I saw lots of pickups come in on the hook in my dealership days with a hole in the engine block from deep water crossings.

Not sure why that doesn't make sense to you, though.

Occasionally I work on diesel grading equipment that hydro locks from the rain that runs down the exhaust pipe, into the manifold and through an open valve and locks up the motor, too. It's not uncommon.

Spdloader

Those are valid points Joe, but since he does have vents and definitely has water in his fuel is it not worth the one hour it takes to drop a tank and drain it to save your motor?

Spdloader

It was not *that* much water. The thing is this. The fresh air intake for the air cleaner is routed down to the bottom of the grille, just above the bumper. When I was pushing the water, in first gear, keeping the engine revved to prevent stalling, I got the water level just high enough to get it into the end of the intake hose. It was enough to dampen the air filter, but it wasn't as if I dumped water down the carb. Does that make sense?

Thanks,

CJB

When you took the air filter out, was there water inside the intake tube? Did any at all run out? If there was any water there, it was probably sucked into the engine each time you cranked it over, and just puddled in the cylinder. If you don't want to pull the tank to drain it, you could always disconnect the fuel line (or cut it) somewhere under the truck, take the fuel cap off, and drain it into something large enough to hold it all.

Good luck!

SC Tom

If he sucked water into the engine and then tried to crank it before he cleared the cylinders, he hydrolocked. He should check for holes in the engine block first.

The water doesn't come in from the fuel injector, it comes in from the intake valve.

If water was sucked into the cylinder, it probably didn't puddle, it probably bent a connecting rod.

Not sure what you mean, Matt.

Spdloader

Absolutely.

Water is heavier than gasoline and will settle to the lowest point in the system. If you can crack that point open, you can drain until no more water is left.. Any other low spots in the line will need to similarly "purged".

Don't half-ass the recovery process. The few bucks you'll spend and the couple hours it'll take are way cheaper than hurting your motor/drivetrain.

True, but where's the injector come in to play? he said right off the bat it was a carbureted truck.

GO NAVY!

I bought a flood car or 2 in my day. Replace all plug wires, regrease bearings, drain and refill manual trans and differentials with gear lube (90 weight) drain fuel tank by disconnecting rubber line at fuel pump and hook up a 12v electric fuel pump (39.95) gas and water will seperate if left standing, so dont waste it. Add drygas, replace fuel filter, and replace your catyletic converter.

If your car has grease fittings, regrease all. Then go get yourself a grease needle and grease all of the sealed components (no grease fittings, but have grease)

i usually will spray some lube on the a-frame bushings to displace any trapped moisture.