Hydrolocking can really bust up a engine and it really hard on diesels because of there higher CR ratio so it take even less water to do it. It need to get sucked into intake though as you will never get enough up fuel line to do it because it does not come in fast enough and it will not run either.
----------------- The SnoMan
IN the case of driving through deep water, water ingestion from the air intake is was sucks the vast majority of water into the cylinders, not water in the fuel.
Oh. OK, replace "injector" with "carb." My point being is more likely if he hydrolocked the water came from the air intake, not the fuel supply.
"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
Agreed. I was merely giving examples of what I've seen. It takes relatively little water to hydrolock one cylinder, but it's doubtful it would happen through the normal drafting channels of a carb; But, if the oil pan is full of water, it can hydrolock from within the crankcase. I've seen it too, but not that often.
Doesn't sound like the OP is interested in taking the safe advice anyway, he's wanting a shortcut in my opinion.
Spdloader
What I meant was, pumping water from the gasoline tank through a carburetor is not a way to fill a cylinder with water. That's not how that happens, ever. Hydrolocking a cylinder with gasoline would be far more likely if that were possible. It's not.
Hydrolocking occurs when water goes where the air is supposed to go - the engine is operating in a whole world of water.
I appreciate the vote of confidence. ;-)
Actually, I'm going to do things right, but I'm too busy bailing out my flooding basement to even think about the Ranger right now...
CJB
Didn't mean anything personal, just sayin', that's all. I've been bailing my basement, too lately.
Spdloader
I understand. As to the Ranger, I've already bought the fluids I need except the transmission lube. I'm getting conflicting information on what to use. According to my Haynes manual (which I don't trust much anyway), all manual transmissions up to 1987 got 80W. 1988 and up Mitsu's still get
80W, but M5OD's get ATF. That's what Haynes says anyway.AutoZone's site says that no matter if I have the Mitsu 5 speed or the Mazda
5 speed, it gets 80W.The door code is "M," which one website says definitely means it's a Mazda (M5OD), but it doesn't feel like either of the other M5OD's I've had. The throw is different, and the shifts are much smoother, even though the truck has 122k on it.
Complicating the matter, the truck has a build date of 9/87, which is very early in the 88 model year. I'm just not sure what tranny it is. It could even have the pre-M5OD Toyo Kogyo, which uses 80W. Some folks have said that the Mitsu only came on 4x4's, but I've also been told that there actually were a few Mitsu's with 4x2's. Even if it's not a Mitsubishi tranny, I'll be shocked if it's the same M5OD I had in my 92 and have in my
97; it's that different.The Ford dealer won't even talk to me until I get the code off the tranny, which I guess I need to do next.
What's funny is that I was planning on painting it in a few weeks too. I've already ordered new window seals, etc. I wasn't going to pull the bed or even the bedliner, but now that I have to get to the tank anyway, I think I'll just do it all.
But, in the mean time, the carpet is getting pulled out today.
Thanks to everyone for the help so far!
CJB
Wow, good luck with it. I'd drain the trans a little, you can tell pretty quick if it's ATF or gear lube by look and smell. ATF is purple and/or pink if it's mixed with water, and has a light oil smell. Gear lube is brown and smells like dirty a$$.
Spdloader
LOL. I just stopped by another Ford dealer and they told me the exact same thing. I'll have to pull the plug before I know what to buy.
Thanks again,
CJB
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