Why is changing a "pan" such a big deal? Please don't flame me it's a
real question. I would think you simply:
1. Unbolt and remove pan.
2. Clean off old gasket and mating surface.
3. Apply new gasket.
4. Bolt on new pan using proper tightening pattern and torque.
Am I missing something?
Some vehicles there is a step 0.5 remove engine and step 5 replace engine.
My 4x4 S10 I can drop the front axle and get the pan off but my 2wd s10
there is a cross member less than an inch below the engine so there's no
way that pan will come out (and its a bit wet where the pan meets the
timing cover, I'm thinking of pulling the timing cover and trying to
replace the seal there.)
Not a big deal for most cars, some require that the motor be lifted high
enough to get the pan off. Not a big deal if you have a car lift and a screw
jack to raise the motor.
But most of us don't, we have to lay on the floor with the car on jacks and
use a floor jack or engine hoist to get the motor high enough.
Sounds like a job for JBweld Epoxy. Now of course most are thinking "You
cheap SOB...get the damn oil pan and fix it right".. Sure that is what I
would do if money grew in the back yard! I swear by JB weld to seal non
pressurized cracks, and here is why. Being a poor college student, I had my
tranny go out on my Cutlass. I scraped the money together to replace it and
did the job myself with some classmates. (was in Community college learning
Auto tech) lo and behold, while having someone else help me, one of the guys
put the wrong size bolt in the tranny pan after changing the filter, and it
stripped. Well we thought (duh) that all the other bolts would hold in the
tranny fluid and all would be good....WRONG. (being poor makes folks look at
things in a whole different light.)
ENTER JB weld. After loosing all the fluid in about 2 days, we pulled the
pan, cleaned all the fluid away. Filled the whole with JB weld (I know I
know should have used a heli-coil...but again...poor, first semester of
school and hadn't learned much yet) and drilled and tapped it. Put that
sucker together and NO LEAK...had the car for the next two years with no
SO I would clean it and stick some JB weld on there and see if that works.
God after reading that I can't believe I did stuff like that to get by back
then.....stuff that I can afford to do different today.
BUT, I would go with the new pan if at all possible.
I'd tell the mech to fix it, he overtorqued the plug....
Otherwise get one of those easy drain oil plugs, the kind I guess you screw
open to allow the oil to flow, and THEN put JB weld around it...
If this crack developed as a result of the plug being tightened, then
it's a working crack. Every time you put the plug back in you will be
opening the crack. That's too much even for JB Weld. And you will have
trouble cleaning in that crack to apply JB. Obviously you won't be
putting it in the sealing area for the plug so that part of the crack
stays open. I'm still for trying something if your money and the car
preclude a new pan. Rough up the area first and clean with brake fluid
with no oil in the pan. See if you can patch it. Then I would look for
an aftermarket plug that uses the rubber expansion bulb method. Some
here have said they work. That type of plug will seal withoug putting
much pressure on the crack to open up. In fact, with that plug and no
patch it might not leak because the crack will try to close up without
the metal drain plug in it and these after market plugs I'm talking
about pull in from behind somewhat and might cover the crack area.
I just Googled and found lost of options that could work. I cant be
positive from the description but the ones offered at HwHarvey
Westbury look like they would be worth a try. They cost $3 or $5
PS.I saw another type at egenterprises.com that operate like a molly.
They seal from the outside by pulling a bar from the inside. That
could work too.
Hell yeah, among other things.
The only thing I cannot do on my own car as of yet, is diagnose the
computer stuff. I graduated out of college in 1991, and the "brains" were a
simple command control module for emissions. I just have not been able to
save enough money to get a really good scanner.
Oh, and I don't do body work either...I leave that to the professionals!!!
I'm confused....what exactly do you see? I see a bored individual rudely
butchering a post. So any comment made by me, the original poster of that
message, was aimed directly at that person. I once thought it was
acceptable to post assistance to those who may need it. I did not realize
that the internet and newsgroup police get to edit posts with (severe)
vulgarity to make them "funny". I only post when I feel it necessary to put
in my two cents
Now, I have seen many of your posts and you are quite a knowledgeable soul.
We haved slammed folks together in the same string, and even agreed on many
topics. so what gives?
Would it be at all possible to get back to the intended purpose of the
newsgroup and extinguish this nonsence?
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