Re: HELP!!! Seized Motor Removal

Can you drop the oil pan and loosen the main/rod bolts until you find out which one(s) are bound up? After that it should turn relatively easy.

Hi, > I am in need of some guidance on the best way to get a seized motor in a > position to get to the torque converter bolts. The guy had spun a bearing > and continued to drive it (for WEEKS I might add.) Now it is locked up and > I am assuming it is seized at the crank. It is a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am with > a 3.1 V-6. Already have the donor motor, and just two bolts short on the TC > prevent the removal. (managed to reach one already) > > any help?? > > John > >
Reply to
Harry McGuffin
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Believe it or not that is exactly the same solution I came up with at dinner. I was so frustrated at the car that I had a mental block. Thanks for confirming what I am going to do with it. If I can't actually unbolt the pan to get it out of the way, I will take a cutting wheel to it and make it get out of my way. Motor is junk anyway.

Anyone need bit parts from a 3.1

John

Reply to
eightupman

I wonder if it's better to remove head, and shatter piston ? I'm assuming you,ve tried oiling the cylinders, and attempting to rotate in * both * directions. A melted piston might turn one direction, not the other. The mains approach sounds good, yank rod caps, try pushing each piston up, may wind up torching seized rod [ s ]

Best of luck

Reply to
451ctds

"KenG" wrote

The only time you want to remove the torque converter with the engine is in the case of a seized engine. Of course, you have to have the room to be able to do this, and in the OP's case, you would not be able to do this with the powertrain in the vehicle. You would have to drop the entire powertrain out the bottom and "then" pull the engine and torque converter out. There is always a good possibility that you can damage the converter bushings and the input shaft on the trans. But when you have a seized engine...you do what you have to do.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Reply to
reitze

Just yank the converter with the engine. It's messy, but necessary.

Reply to
Steve Barker

You are correct. Just yank it with the engine. Unbolt later.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Well DUH. You have to remove stuff till there is MORE clearance. OR pull the trans off first.

Reply to
Steve Barker

"Steve Barker" wrote

Ahhhh...what do you suggest removing, Steve....on a front wheel drive Grand Am? Maybe the passenger fender, and then cut a section of the body out? You haven't done many of these, have you?

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

Plenty. Just pull the sub frame, then the trans. You got a better idea? BUT it's all a moot point, because he already butchered the pan and got it out.

Reply to
Steve Barker

"Steve Barker" wrote

That was "one" of your options. The other was "Well DUH. You have to remove stuff till there is MORE clearance". And how would you accomplish "that" without removing the sub and trans?

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

So you mean take off the right fender and cut out the right strut tower?? Should I use a torch, ,or would a sawzall work? And could you recommend a good welder to put it all back??

John

Reply to
eightupman

Hey group

Thanks for all the input. Yes, I chose to butcher the oil pan on an already butchered engine. It worked wonderfully and saved butloads of time and energy.

Note to Steve..If I was going to take the time and go through the trouble of removing the subframe, then I could have UNBOLTED the oilpan and removed it correctly, by the manual. Since I work in my driveway, and do not have any of the specialty JXXXXX GM tools, hanging the motor off my cherry picker to remove the subframe would have gotten in the way of removing the frame. Also..I only own one jack, and that was strategically holding up the tranny. Time is money and a 160K blown engine is worth little to nothing.

Thanks all again

John

Reply to
eightupman

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