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Re: tranny oil change

Those B&M "add a drain plug" kits definitely ease the process of removing fluid without dropping the pan. In fact, the only time I ever used one, it never quit leaking until I pitched the pan and scrounged up another one. The crummy plastic washer that supposedly crushes to seal the drilled bolt to the pan splits or doesn't seal well, and the plug has a tendency to loosen, particularly if it is oriented such that debris striking the undercarriage tends to hit it in the unscrew direction. I would definitely suggest welding (assuming a steel pan) and positioning it out of the way of obstacles. Actually, I would suggest biting the bullet and dropping the pan once a year, to avoid the constant headache of a cheap, leaky add-on drainplug.

If changing the fluid by disconnecting the the cooler's pressure line, I would suggest recruiting a buddy to continuously pour new ATF into the fill tube; I would not rely on placing the return line in a bucket of fresh fluid.

Sounds like a pretty good technique to me. Think I might give that a > try when > changing the filter the next time so as to get as much old fluid out as > possible. Thanks for sharing your method. > >> >> > I like the idea of disconnecting the return line and to start the car > for >> a >> > few second until you have 2/3 litres drained. You refill and the same >> > process all over again until the oil get out of there like new. >> > >> This is what I do. I bought a tranny cooler remount kit that contained >> a barbed fitting to screw into the cooler outlet on my radiator. I >> then > clamp >> on a length of hose leading to a bucket. I start the engine and pump >> out > a >> few quarts, stop the engine, refill the pan and repeat untill the fluid >> is all new. You can't pour it in as fast as it pumps out. >> >> IMO, this is safer than the pump machines which might overpressurize >> the cooler or the tranny (I read a post a while back where the person >> thought this caused his cooler to leak). >> >> Of course, this does not change the filter, but I think it's a good >> thing > to >> do between scheduled filter changes, especially if you tow. On my > previous >> vehicle, I put in a drain plug and pulled it once a year, adding fresh >> fluid, and changed the filter according to the severe schedule. >> >> WW >> >> >>
Reply to
Marky
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You could put a brass T in one of the lines and install a brass 1/4-turn valve in it. I use this method on my Suburban. I run the engine and remove a quart of fluid at a time (that is, drain a qt. out and add a qt. back in) I use a Mason jar to measure the fluid as I drain it out and you change all the fluid, not just the stuff in the pan. To keep from accidently draining the tranny, I put a screw-in plug in the valve. Rich B

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor traffic - the quick and the dead. ~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~

Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~

Reply to
Rich B

Consider synthetic fluid if your towing. Synthetic laughs at the heat that kills conventional fluid. As for a drain plug, once you have the pan off, weld a fine thread nut to inside of pan in an out of harm's way area. A short fine thread bolt, washer, and fiber washer will seal fine. I agree the B+M drain plug is a P O S, and I'd never use one.

Reply to
451 CTDS

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