Yes, it is not that hard. There is only one bolt running throught the motor
mount on each side under the motor holding it down. Remove the Y pipe.
Remove the starter. Then slightly lift the motor (using a cherry picker or a
jack and a 2 X4 on the front balancer. Once you take the tension off the
motor mount bolts, you can remove them relatively easily. Then you can
continue to lift the motor a few inches (checking that you do not crush the
distributor on the firewall) enough for the oil pan to clear the crank, and
the oil pickup tube. It is critical that you do not bend the oil filler
tube in this operation.
When replacing it, I use a bead of RTV on the cork to help hold it in place
while wrestling with the position of the pan and the bolts. Make sure you
get a bit on the corners of the rubber gasket as well. DO NOT CRUSH THE
CORK!!!! if you see it starting to squeeze out of the pan/block, you are
going too tight. I skip every other one and tighten a little at a time so
it seals evenly.
Be sure to use the right rubber gaskets. Your Fel Pro kit is universal and
will fit several years/types of V-8 Chevy motors.
Thanks for the replies, I found out the 86 uses a 1 piece rubber
gasket, supposed to be better than cork. Local garage wants 3.5 hrs @
$57. an hour plus parts, he suggests changing the oil pan at the same
time they're another $50-$60. Jacking the engine up carefully by the
balancer doesn't dammage anything?
email@example.com (Al Bundy) wrote in message
The BEST way is to use a hoist and pull up from the top. I'm not following
why the need to CHANGE the pan. If there are any dents, or if the lip is
warped, it can be carefully worked out with a rubber mallet and a block of
wood. Only time I have ever replaced one is either a gash in it from
hitting something, or the oil plug was stripped out.
BUT for ease of maintenence sure...replace it.
I personally have never damaged a motor by jacking it by the balancer. I am
NOT saying that it can't happen. You could get fancy and fashion a frame to
lift by the sides of the block, but then you would be putting things in the
$160 for that job at a garage is probably not that bad, considering some
dealers are pushing $80 an hour. They are on point with the price of a new
pan. I could not find one under $50, BUT did not search for hours either.
http://tanks-to-pans.com/site/823208/page/366781 . May be worth it this time
to let someone else handle the task, and the headache.
The local auto parts quoted $52 Cdn for an oil pan "kit" and had a
seperate listing for the gasket. Seemed cheap to me too, they would
have to order it in. As the garage suggested, the pan is rusting on
the sides up near the top. Probably get it done, getting old and lazy.
Thanks for the advise.
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