Just so you know the power window motors are riveted in and you have to
dril out the rivets ( about 6 of them ) to removed the motor. You can re
rivet the the new motor in or use nuts & bolts. Its quite an involved
job. Took me about four hours ( driver front door ).
Not sure of the procedure to remove a Buick door panel.
1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE
I had the '91 Park, which should be pretty close. It had a left rear window
that would not operate. I followed the diagnostics as I found in the Helm
manual, and I concluded that the problem (for mine) was actually inside the
driver door, at or near the controls. At first, I did not see the Allen head
hex bolt that held one door panel on, so I had the dealer do the work instead.
They concluded that it was actually the window motor, so they replaced it and
it worked. Then later, the whole set of symptoms came back. I followed the Helm
manual again, and again I figured it must be in the driver door switches or
nearby. I took it to the dealer again. They called and said that it was the
window motor. I explained to them what they had previously replaced, and then I
told them what the Helm manual said. Two hours later, they called to say that
it was now all fixed. No new motor. No charge. They never wanted to admit
exactly what it was that was intermittent inside the driver door controls.
Maybe a connector.
the switch at the back door does not work either. The window went down 2
inches and stopped, won't come back up or go on down. I at least need to go
in and move the motor or whatever to get the window back up!
If you study the electrical diagrams, you will see what I mean. The rear door's
switch does not connect directly to the rear motor. The switch is wired up
through the driver's door switches and then back to the rear motor.
On the other hand, this one sounds vaguely like the contacts inside the motor
could be toast.
Did you follow my earlier comments, based on the Helm manual?
Whenever you purchase a new GM car, you purchase the real shop manual from
Helm, Inc. It varies from model to model, but it is typically two volumes
about the size of a telephone book, and the price is typically $100-150. I
figure the manuals are worth ten times that price over the life of the car.
Most door panels have 2 or 3 screws. look in the carpet of the door, or
under the arm rest and near the handle. Once the screws are removed, you
need to grab the panel and pull hard. It will come off. It is attacked with
plastic push ons. They hold the door in(they can be bought at any parts
store). I start at the edge of the door and pull (screw driver will help,
then work all the way around the door.
Once the panel is off, duct tape the window in position. If you don't it
will come crashing down once you remove the motor. Most motors are held in
place by rivets (faster to assemble that way). You will need to drill out
the rivets. Some rivets might hold the window channel. I bought a new muter
and compared it so I could figure out which ones to drill out.
I am no expert, and it was the first one I did. It will take a couple of
I removed all the screws I could see, but the arm rest still seems to be
fastened to the door frame through the panel somehow, so I can't pull the
panel off. Everything else is free as far as I can tell. I have looked all
around it for screws (or pop-off screw covers) that hold it on, but don't
see any yet
I understand where the symptom shows. When my Buick had the same symptom, it
turned out that the fault was inside the driver's door. So it was the driver's
door that I had to tear apart. The dealer kept tearing the rear door apart and
getting incomplete results until I got him to look in the driver's door wiring
connectors, which solved it.
I'm not sure what years it was on but some of the Buick padded armrests
slid either forward or backward on the lower portion of thing it sit on.
It seems to look like a wedge clip that is on the bottom of the padded
armrest. After the padded armrest is removed more screws will be
expoused that need to be removed
1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE
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