Is it common for the pivot point on a belt tensioner to seize? I was
visiting a mechanic friend today who discovered the belt tensioner on my
Park Avenue doesn't move more than an 1/8th inch..Certainly not enough
to slip the belt off. I don't actually need a belt just yet.
Looks like a little bit of work is involved seeing a coolant pipe runs
through the tensioner bracket/housing. 3800V6
Meanwhile the 18 year old tensioner o the Bonneville swings freely.
91 Bonneville 318,253
05 Park Avenue 84,726
Not real common but it does happen.
The usual culprit is corrosion of the pot metal. You probably could free
it using some PB Blaster or some break free. Then use a dead blow or
rubber hammer to tap it and free it up. Get it loose enough to pull the
belt and then go to work on it both ways.
Get it freed up so the spring returns it freely and go from there.
Yup, that's a common way tensioners fail. The older 3.8s had coolant
running through them and a goofy set of plastic coolant elbow fittings
that were prone to breakage during disassembly, but I checked on the
2005 VIN K and it appears that it is simply a regular tensioner assembly
(or the coolant passages aren't mentioned or visible in the service
info). I have not replaced a newer style tensioner to know personally.
Anyway, the part is pretty pricey, and the labor calls for 1.4 hours,
down from the 1.8 to replace the older style I'm familiar with.
Thanks for all the replies. I'll see if I can free it up by lubricating
it and tapping on
Toyota: This one does have the coolant tubes running through it.
91 Bonneville 318,476
05 Park Avenue 84,789
Should you decide to effect repairs yourself, you may
find the following post (which also involved the removal
of the multifuntion belt tensioner) for a '96 Regal of some
I would strongly advise against prying or hammering on
the device as it looks considerably less than substantial.
I might also mention that my issue with extraction was
related to a likely oversized o-ring (it was an otherwise
quite routine, non-problematic part to repair), either
stemming from utilizing the incorrect replacement part
in a previous episode or an improperly designed OEM
part. I was informed by the dealer parts department
that the new o-ring (which was noticeably both smaller
and thinner) was of a superceded part number, though
that's not a conclusive determinant about whether there
was actually any difference in either dimensions, materials
construction or vendor.
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