I have a 94 GMC Safari with the W engine that never seems to warm up too
operating temp during idle. My main concern is in the winter when
prewarming it with my remote start. I have replaced the thermostat, O2
sensor, plugs ....the injector assembly that is on the inside of the
intake (forget what its called) It starts and runs good gets the factory
rated MPG actually 1 MPG better. My conclusion is that the idle mixture
is set to too cold of a burn. The exhaust smells rich....not like raw
gas more like an old 60's non computer car Can the eeprom be replaced
to make a hotter idle burn. I have a eeprom burner and just need the
file to copy it to a chip. Or is there program to read and edit the
If I turn on the front and rear heaters they remove enough heat that the
t stat never opens during idle.
Do you mean the engine temp doesn't come up? scan it to check the gage
accuracy, has a 195 thermo correct. Also when scanning the rich mixture you
suspect can be checked. Also check for a locked up fan clutch, this could
pull too much air thru the rad. and prevent full warm up.
Scan checks out ok. Lots of new sensors bla bla bla no change. New 195 stat no
New clutch fan when the water pump went no change. It warms up to normal when
but not idling as a matter of fact it will cool off after driving hard then
it is around freezing temp outside. Me thinks it should have a hotter (leaner)
There is no way to lean the idle mixture without a reprogram, I don't think
this the problem, what does the scan say for eng. temp under these
conditions, I've used AM clutches that were to tight and pulled excess air
into the rad when cold, don't assume they are working properly.
Sounds like an air pocket or some debris near the sensor giving you a
false reading. Could also be a water jacket opening has become almost
completely plugged, causing the sensor to not get hot coolant at idle
but it'll force through when driving...
On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 22:25:52 GMT, none of your business
If that is the case then the whole block is plugged??? because nothing goes
through the rad
(hoses feel cold at idel) Heater/s is not at par at idel. I dont have an exact
lets just say it is about half of normal at idel (0 celsius 32 farenhiet
steady 195 while driving. I have concluded the heaters pull away more heat than
can produce at idel at near freezing temps.
Mike Levy wrote:
On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 06:36:49 GMT, none of your business
Try checking your thermostat housing gasket. i pretty much had the
same issue you are having with a Vin Z engine, and what i found out is
my thermostat housing was cutting my gasket and allowing water through
the sides. i replaced the gasket several times and even used silicone
sealant. i ended up buying a new housing made of cast iron instead of
aluminum. physically the cast iron and the aluminum are the same on
the outside...but on the inside, the "bubble" that surrounds the
thermostat pellet is smaller, meaning a thicker wall, thus holding the
thermostat and gasket in place rather than floating around like it did
in the thin wall aluminum housing.
it took me two years of off and on checking to chase this down. i
changed thermostats, gaskets, pumps, hoses,
caps...everything...finally on a whim, i change the housing.
since then all my under-cooling issues have disappeared. 195 all the
time, no coolant loss and 300k on the truck.
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 00:39:41 GMT, none of your business
true, mine was the same way, there was also very little pressure, i
guess due to overcooling. the truck was basically running like it had
no thermostat. therefore, there was no flow restriction to slow the
coolant through the block to pick up heat. the highest temp my truck
would get in the Texas summer was just under 160 f. in the winter, i
could ride through Houston and never get above 130.
you may want to backfush the engine and check the heater bypass valve
also. i had a friend whose ranger's valve got stopped up when he used
some powdered radiator cleaner.
I did not see a heater bypass valve? Do you mean for the interior heater? Or a
by-pass valve to the
rad? WE are off track here In have checked all of the above. It is not a problem
with the cooling
system. It just simply has a cold burn on idleing.
It was driven for years with a plugged o2 sensor that may have plugged the cat
converter. Going to try
that next. My main question is/was can the chip in the computer be modified for
a leaner idle?
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