car dies when driving it down the road. sometimes it will go a week
without doing it then like this week it did three times and now it
wont start. have heard to change igniter, coil, distributer. just want
it up and running. your suggestions will be appreciated.
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Depends a bit on mileage and what country you're in.
Have you checked whether your car was part of the big ignition switch
recall? You can also set up an account with American Honda's Ownerlink
also be able to view any Recalls or TSB's specifically for your vehicle.
when they get to be like 10 years old.They got a tendency to work sometimes then
not, I heard its from after they heat up they jus quit workin.Then after a few
hours of sittin they start right up. Have u checked for spark? Are you gettin
fuel? Have you checked if you got fuel to your fuel rail? Check all under hood
fuses? How olds your battery?
Could be several things, but as others say, the coils,
igniters and ignition switch are notorious for dying as you
describe. If the dying occurs after warmup, then my money is
on the igniter being failed. Only buy an OEM coil.
Aftermarket ones do not last one. Consider changing the
igniter at the same time, since an aged coil can have
detrimental effects on the igniter.
The ignitor and coil are integral (literally) to the
distributor, being built right on its housing. It's
inaccurate to say "the distributor is failing." Not to be
persnickety but more to promote good communications so as to
get your car running a.s.a.p.
Tegger's famous page
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#startrun should help
narrow this down a lot.
Before I replaced any expensive parts I would replace the rotor especially
if it is an aftermarket rotor. Rotors that are poorly made can develop a
"tunnel" through the plastic and allow the coil spark to short directly to
the distributor shaft. The reason it happens when warm and not cold is
because the tunnel gets bigger when warm. This tip was straight from Honda's
Tech Line in the 1980's when I worked in a shop. The customer had spent well
over a $1000 throwing parts at it at a non-dealer shop. When he finally
brought it to us we fixed it with Tech Lines help for $14. The symptoms
exhibited were the same if I am reading the OP description correctly.
The problem rotor was a Honda rotor which came from a batch made with a
defective molding process. I suspect that Honda rotors will not have this
problem again but aftermarket rotors probably will.
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