the point of changing oil before storage is that any accumulated acids
[which are usually handled by most oils b.t.w, so this isn't something
to get /too/ worried about], don't get to hang out on bearings and other
dissimilar metal interfaces and cause erosion or damage.
that's in theory. and with crappy hardware. but i've seen a panzer
tank engine that had been 50 years in a polish river bed. the thing was
like new inside - i don't believe its oil had been changed before it was
the tank's story is impressive, not mine. i just happen to know one of
the guys at this place and was there the day they took the heads off:
if you're in the area, it's one heck of a collection to go see. i
believe it's the largest private military vehicle collection in the
world. the owner was quite the obsessive, and had the means by which to
if you're into that kind of thing, it's worth a special trip because
there's really nothing else like it. you can't just walk in though -
have to apply. if you can gather a group, it's best. if not, they
might be able to tack you onto another group, but you have to fit their
You'll get a temporary flat-spot on the tires after 3-moths of sitting, but
that will work out during the first drive. Automakers and car retailers
often have cars sit for months before sale, and they have this happen all
Now that I remember... what is very helpful is to park the car out of the
weather. Rain will eventually cause rust on the brake rotors. 3 months of
non-use may cause rust to build to the point where you could end up with
permanent brake vibration.
Sure will. Just make sure you have your radio's security code!!!
Change the oil BEFORE you park it. You don't need to change it again AFTER
you start driving again.
no, cars that get started to be moved about a parking lot and then
stopped regularly have re-start problems because the spark plugs foul.
and cars that just do short trips don't get their oil hot enough to
evaporate start-up condensation.
won't happen. the injectors are sealed.
see above - injection systems aren't open to atmosphere like carbs.
bottom line, 3 months is trivial. as tegger says, change the oil,
install a smart* charger, inflate the tires, and walk away. it'll start
right up when you get back.
* a "smart" charger is essential. the old fashioned "dumb" ones, i.e.
ones that don't modulate current according to charge condition, will fry
your battery over time.
lawn mowers aren't sealed - modern cars are. if it's open, especially
with ethanol in the gas, moisture can get in and the light fractions can
get out. that means phase separation, corrosion and gumming. so yes,
definitely do it for the mower, but i'd not bother with my car.
Unless you fill up /totally-empty/ with non-ethanol gas, Sta-Bil is still a
Oh, and one more thing: Leave the parking brake OFF. Leaving it ON for 3-
months may make the shoes stick to the drums, and you'll have some trouble
getting them unstuck again.
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