Drive around neighborhood for five minutes to get all the crud into
solution. Place paint tray or 'litter box' pan under tranny, use 3/8"
socket handle (without a socket) to remove magnetic drain bolt (might be
tight). Extract the bolt part way from the opening for a minute so it
can drain slowly, otherwise it will squirt on the front right tire.
Allow to drain ten minutes. Wipe off magnetic drain plug and replace
copper crush washer. Install plug, use long funnel or hose to refill
with 3 quarts of Honda Z1. Start engine and run thru gears for a minute
and then recheck dipstick. Add sparingly until level is right.
Drive the CR-V for a week and then do it again, taking careful note of
how little metal is on the magnet this time. Should look like a coat of
I have 30 k on this CR-V is this too soon to change the fluid, I have pulled
a small utility trailer with no more than 1k lbs on it no more than 75 miles
and not all that mileage was at one time, maybe a trip to the appliance
store to pick up a washer and dryer, or the lumber yard, things like that!
It's never too early to change your ATF. It will look good for you when
you sell it, and you'll sleep with a smile on your face for taking extra
good care of your CR-V. You've already added the extra DOTS to the
maintenance schedule for the rear differential, haven't you? Manual says
105,000 Km, but reality says 30,000 Km.
Scraping, shuddering noise during tight low-speed turns is the symptom
of exhausted Dual Pump Fluid. . . .
i'm on the fence about this for the gearbox. my friends' 88 accord had
360k on the clock. they owned it from new. never changed the atf. i
can personally attest to that vehicle driving like a champ. bmw's don't
even have a drain plug and are "sealed for life".
do i think clean fluid is a good idea? yes. does changing the fluid
run the risk of introducing muck to the transmission? yes, particularly
when re-using a dirty funnel. again, i'm on the fence. i've changed
out the fluid on my 89 civic a number of times because it had been on
ordinary dexron, but after this next time [final dilution], i'm
reverting to factory change schedule.
Easy job. Only a little more difficult than changing engine oil. For
some reason Honda recommends a drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive,
drain, fill routine instead of a power flush style change out.
You will need a long funnel, real Honda ATF from the dealer, and a new
crush washer for the ATF drain plug along with your usual motor oil
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