I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure test, and passed.
you don't usually do a separate dye test for antifreeze since it's already dyed. dye is more commonly used for differentiating different types of oil leak [engine oil and mtf are similarly colored and hard to tell apart sometimes] or for a/c systems.
the best thing at this time is to take the vehicle to someone that has an interest in fixing the problem, not trying to tell you the vehicle is too old to be worth bothering with. there are plenty of independent honda specialists out there. find one and check to see if they have a good reputation.
"mjc13" wrote in news:gO7vj.9369$kz3.3883@trndny03:
The two tests are meant to check for different problems. They are NOT equivalent.
I'm assuming the "system test" means they checked the cooling system by pressurizing it. If that test did not use dye, then the test was incomplete. A dye test also will not pick up leaks that come from the water pump, since those leaks take lots of time fo be seen from under the timing belt cover.
If there is suspicion on a head gasket leak, you must do the cylinder pressure check.
"mjc13" wrote in news:gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08:
Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.
No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when replacing the timing belt.
That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.
I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
I appreciate the replies. I'll have them do the pressure test if there is no sign of a leak. If it's the kind of leak a dye test would show, it should be visible by now anyway, I hope.
What did the dealer say he thought the problem was?
If the reservoir is empty, but the radiator is full (I'm still not clear if that's what you are saying), have you checked that the reservoir itself, or the hose to it is not damaged and is actually letting the coolant leak out?
It turned out to be a leaking water pump. I believe the Grand Prize goes to Tegger (or maybe Ray) for guessing that. I'm relieved. The pump also had one frozen bolt, so I'm wondering if the pump really *was* replaced 5.5 years ago and 50k miles ago, like th printout from the West coast dealer said. It shouldn't have been in such bad shape - the replacement interval is 6 years and soemthing like 80k miles...
motsco_ wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:
But it does. ALL materials expand with heat.
The reservoir level naturally rises and falls as the coolant heats and cools. This is the purpose of the various seals in the rad cap, and for the very presence of the (unpressurized) reservoir in the first place.
You don't have to take my word for it. Check your own reservoir's level at dead-cold. Drive the car to full-hot, then have another look at the level. It will be at least a half-inch higher.
Coolant is constantly traveling in and out of the reservoir with every heat-cool cycle. It's a normal and necessary feature of a modern sealed cooling system's operation.
s.com:
my idle question is, how much negative pressure is required to suck the coolant in. obviously, the spring keeps the in valve shut at zero pressure, but when the coolant cools off, there's negative pressure in the block which sucks the coolant from the reservoir. we assume the pressure of the spring on the valve leading from the block to the reservoir is what it's labeled as, but i just wonder how much residual vacuum remains in the block when the spring shuts the input valve. for no reason other than idle curiosity.
innews: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:
almost zero. there are two springs - one for high pressure exit, the other is practically zero return. unscrew the radiator cap when cold and see how much vacuum there is when you release.
z wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@41g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
There are no springs on the inlet valve.
If you study the bottom of the rad cap, you'll discover either:
1) a round, thin rubber flap smaller than a dime, or 2) a wiggly post with a plastic disc on the end of it.These are the inlet valves. It takes /next to/ zero negative pressure for the rubber flap type to allow coolant back into the rad, and /definitely/ zero for the wiggly post type, which is always open until pressure shuts it.
This assumes, of course, that both types are CLEAN. Goop and crud will plug up the inlet and prevent free flow of coolant back to the rad.
This futher assumes you're using the correct OEM ND caps. If you've got aftermarket crap, all bets are off as to how they work.
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