Curious...

I'm not seeing messages in the newsgroup any longer.

I don't know if it's at my end, or if a bunch of ISPs decided to drop newgroups at the same time.

A response from any of the regulars would be appreciated.

RFT!!! Dave Kelsen

Reply to
Dave Kelsen
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Dave Kelsen wrote in news:4c28816e$0$4842 $ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com:

I'm still here. Mostly because I hate Web boards.

And nobody's bothered to reply to my Oil Evaporation message...

Reply to
Tegger

Dave Kelsen wrote in news:4c28816e$0$4842 $ snipped-for-privacy@unlimited.newshosting.com:

I'm not seeing any new messages either, by the way.

Reply to
Tegger

I'm still watching.

Reply to
dgk

I'm here.

Reply to
Elmo P. Shagnasty

I have not noticed signs of posts not appearing. I still read here just about daily. Right now I am planning the first timing belt change on my new-used 2003 Civic LX. I have my homemade tool for the pulley bolt figured out. It is a little different from what is at Tegger's site, because it seems there are clearance issues with the newer, say

2001-2005 Hondas for the pulley tools. See
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Reply to
Elle

Before you remove the old belt, mark a tooth on the cam cog and a tooth on the crank cog (permanent marker) and count the teeth on the belt between the marks. Write the number down and then count the teeth again! Write the number down, and count the teeth again for a third time! Mark the belt (yellow crayon?) at the cog teeth. Remove belt, compare it to the new belt. Count the teeth out on the new belt (3 times!), and mark with crayon(?). You want it right! People who build engines double check every thing. People who build racing engines triple check. If this is your first timing belt, triple check it or more. You want it 100% right.

Reply to
M.A. Stewart

snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (M.A. Stewart) wrote in news:i0b07p$8rk$1 @theodyn.ncf.ca:

I just use Wite-Out. Better contrast.

Yep. One-tooth-off is too many.

I lay the new belt on top of the old to make certain the marks are in the exact correct place.

A caution: Rotating the engine means the belt marks will gradually diverge, so you need to get the alignment perfect the fist time.

Also important: Take VERY CAREFUL note of the tension on the old belt BEFORE releasing it. Duplicate that tension on the new belt. This often means needing to give the tensioner a bit of an extra tug by hand while snugging down the tensioner bolt. Left to its own devices, the tensioner is, as likely as not, to make the belt too loose.

Reply to
Tegger

I look at this group frequently. And, I read (with interest) Tegger's "oil evap" post.

Reply to
tww1491

Elle wrote in news:adde4a63-1f9b-414e-a736- snipped-for-privacy@c33g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:

I wonder if all this would be easier if North American plumbing supplies were made in Metric...

Reply to
Tegger

On 6/28/2010 6:50 AM Tegger spake these words of knowledge:

Thanks, Tegger. Us old usenet guys are dying out...

RFT!!! Dave Kelsen

Reply to
Dave Kelsen

Well, since you asked and since the topic is oil, perhaps you'll share your thoughts regarding an oil consumption question. I have a 10 month-old 2009 Civic 4-door EX. Had the first oil change at right about 5K miles per Honda recommendation. I didn't notice any oil loss in those first 5K miles. In the 2nd 5K miles I began to notice the oil level seemed to be dropping on the dipstick gage. At about 9K miles, the level was at the bottom of the dipstick gage and I had to add about 1/2 quart to bring the level back to the top of the gage. Always check oil after fueling. Haven't noticed any oil spots on garage floor so I'm pretty sure there's no leak.

I just had 2nd oil change at just over 10K miles. Asked dealership service tech about it and was told that Honda regards as normal any consumption up to 1qt. per 1000 miles. That seemed high to me but this is my first Honda so don't know. I insisted they do a consumption test which is currently underway and I'm supposed to return after about 1000 miles for evaluation. I drive pretty conservatively and rarely push the engine very hard. In the 10 mos. since I bought the car new, I doubt the engine has revved over 4500 even once.

So, how much oil consumption is normal for this engine, and what should I expect when I return for evaluation of the consumption test results? Thanks for the reply. PE

Reply to
PE

A quart per thousand is pretty much the industry standard for warranty repair of new engines with higher-than-average oil consumption. Honda is not unique here. Interestingly, though, the same standard seems to be applied to both big V8s and small 4-pots. Go figure.

My Accord engine still uses no oil to speak of (though the front main seal's on its last legs, and hard right turns make it leak faster) at

224K. It regularly sees high loads (it's hilly here and I only downshift when I have to) and 6000RPM engine speeds, and has since new. The same went for my Civic when I had one.

Nearly none is average for nearly any modern car engine, but there is a range of "normality" and your engine just happens to fall at the other end. The real question is when Honda will tear it down or replace it to stop the consumption, and that, I'm afraid, they have told you.

Reply to
JRE

This will be something like my fourth timing belt change job on the various Civics I have owned. All my tips for changing the belt are at

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.Interestingly, the one time I lost timing (due to setting thetensioner incorrectly), I followed the shop manual's directions verycarefully and all turned out fine. Specifically, I did the following:(1) aligned the camshaft sprocket's embossed timing marks with the topof cylinder head; (2) use a screwdriver held flat on the cylinder headto help ensure it is lined up with the camshaft sprocket =93up=94 marks;(3) use a rod in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole, and watch for therod rising to its max height; and (4) make sure the crankshaft keywayis at 12 o=92clock, a.k.a. TDC.

Reply to
Elle

On Jun 28, 7:43=A0pm, Tegger wrote: Elle wrote [on a pulley tool made in part from a plumbing fitting]

Plumbing fittings and pipes, metric or not, are specified using nominal diameters. Hence I think it would be about as hit-and-miss with the metric system. I found that even bushings (a.k.a. reducers) with the same nominal inside diameter may have a different, external hex nut diameter. A person looking for a bushing for the homemade pulley holder tool needs to take a metric ruler to the hardware store and check for an external hex diameter of at least 50 mm (or possibly

45 mm, depending on what model Honda a person has).
Reply to
Elle

Well, if it evaporates, I didn't notice it. Of course, it was synthetic but I went 8k miles over about 5-6 months and added none, and I could not discern any movement on my dipstick (maybe a mm or so?).

Reply to
Stewart

"PE" wrote in news:VAeWn.1868$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe13.iad:

"Normal" is well over 8K miles once broken-in.

If consumption is indeed as low as you allege, it's only a matter of time before it drops below 1K, and you're eligible for a warranty replacement. Anmd that's what Honda means when they tell you that 1K is considered "normal".

You need to estalbish a paper trail, both with regard to your dealership and your attempts there, and your /actual/ oil consumption.

Be EXTREMELY PRECISE in your oil-level measurements. Here's how I did it:

And keep detailed written records. The more professional your approach, the more likely you'll eventually get sympathy from the dealer and from Honda.

Reply to
Tegger

nobody saying anything that you want to acknowledge...

Reply to
jim beam

with respect, and while well intentioned, you're not "measuring" the oil level correctly and are thus propagating misinformation with that pdf. in the honda owners manual, it tells you to do it with the engine hot, and a couple of minutes after shut-down. you're doing it cold which:

  • does not take into account temperature differences
  • does not take into account potential issues with the oil filter drain-back valve.
  • does not take into account that the dip stick is *calibrated* to be read when hot, not cold.

honda engineers are both smart and experienced. when they formulated their oil check procedure, they did so in a way that would give the most consistent and accurate results. you should stick with it and encourage others to do so also.

Reply to
jim beam

not if the workshop manual procedure is followed correctly. excess belt tension is a very /very/ bad thing. the cam bearing runs directly against the aluminum of the cylinder head - there is no additional or replaceable bearing material. if the belt tension is excessive, the cam will touch the metal, not run on its usual hydrodynamic oil cushion, and then proceed to munch through the head. the only remedy then is head replacement - go to a junk yard and you will see examples of this for yourself. correctly followed, factory procedure will set the correct tension every time. stick with the factory procedure.

untrue. for the reasons stated above.

that said, the tensioner /does/ need to be be carefully prepared and the surfaces cleaned for there to be no "sticktion" or mistakes,.but otherwise, when done correctly, the factory procedure will set the correct belt tension each and every time. adding to that tension, by any means or with any random second-guessing, or because of some misinformed impression that has no basis in fact, is a very expensive mistake. and very bad advice which you should not be making.

Reply to
jim beam

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