That's my usual approach. I wrap a shop rag around each fitting and bleed it
by pressing the pedal and keeping the reservoir full until the rags are
getting wet. Then I tighten the fittings and bleed each wheel until the
fluid is clear... I rarely see bubbles come out, just murky fluid. It's a
really lazy approach but it works for me. Disclaimer - I have not had to
deal with ABS, and this may not work well with ABS.
Be sure to wash all the areas well when you are done.
It's my understanding that the conventional system should not be
affected by the presence of ABS. The fluid chambers are different, so
I don't see what one fluid would do to the other fluid in another
They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.
Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air
left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal
feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines,
and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).
If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be
ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear
caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround
if you run into that.
You got air int he cylinder, the new one. you're going to have to push
it out via the lines anyway, who cares if theres a little more air int
he lines? Its not a big deal, since you're gong to be pushing the rest
of the crap out. look at the system, and apply a small amont of common
Your thinking was correct. Flush the system AFTER replacing the master
cylinder. Remove the fluid from the reservoir of the old master cylinder
first, replace the master cylinder after you've bench bled it (check your
service manual for bench bleeding instructions), and then flush the whole
brake system until you get clean fluid from each caliper/wheel cylinder. I
strongly recommend AGAINST draining the whole system and then trying to
bleed it. There will be so much air in the system you'll be bleeding it for
a long, long time.
How much brake fluid would be good...hmmm...interesting question. As a
start, enough to fill all the lines and the reservoir.
Flush ALL of the old fluid out and use only new fluid. And be sure to
bleed the brakes following the manufacturers recommended procedure for
I'm more than a bit concerned by your questions because they tell me
you don't have a lot of experience working on brakes. Brake work can
be done at home, but someone at the work site has to be knowlegable in
how a brake system works. My strong suggestion is that you either ask
a friend who has that knowlege to sit with you or that you have a
mechanic do the work. Brakes are not something you want to have fixed
just part of the way.
The order of bleeding for the '93 accord is Rear Right, Front Left,
Rear Left, Front Right. I'm going to have to figure a way to tackle
the pushrod freeplay issue. Okay. I got my refurbished MC and so I'm
just waiting for the opportune moment, like when I have a 3day weekend
I've always got AAA to drag me to the mechanic ..
Well, to answer my own question, I used a little less than half a quart
of brake fluid. I probably would have gone through the whole quart,
but I couldn't get the rear left valve loose.
Using my flare wrench, I couldn't loosen the rearleft bleed screw.
The head is rounded and I don't know how I should go about turning it
w/ out breaking it. Any suggestions?
Once loosened I can replace it with a new bleed screw I guess.
Any one w/ experience here? Thanks!
I was afraid the penetrating oil might contaminate the brake system.
Is there a compatible lube I could use in this application, one that
might be better in a 'brake systems' situation?
It's a pain because I didn't get to finish flushing my Brake System.
I got the new MC on and made sure to bleed that, but I couldn't drain
all the lines. The line going to the rear left tire is the guilty
bleed screw... I'm not horribly worried, I just I wanted to get that
old fluid out of that line. I also hope all that old fliud stays in
that line and doesn't migrate throughout the rest of the system, but I
guess it makes sense that it would eventually mix together, but
hopefully not too soon.
this is what I'm thinking. I need to make a run up to the junk yard
and see if I can locate one. Maybe a few, I doubt I'd find my
identical car, just similar ones a year or so apart. I couldn't find
simple bleed screws anywhere, just the fancy ones that have valves or
something in them so you can bleed them easier.
I've got a one-man brake bleed kit which is quite simple to use, just
a bottle w/ a tube going to the bleed screw nipple, so I'm not
interested in these more expensive screw types.
I had a hunch that was the case, for when I opened the other bleed
screws there was just a slight drip until I pressed the brake.
How long is too long to let brake fluid sit around before you use it
in an opened container. We've been told that it collects water, but
any clue how long is too long?
I'd like to report that after about 6 or so days w/ my new MC the
brakes are like new. At first I thought there was a bit too much play
in them, but after driving to and from work a few times I don't notice
it, and the pedal doesn't sink anymore at hot temperatures.
There may be a slight amount or air in there, when I was bleeding
the MC I just kept bleeding and bleeding, eventually I'd seee more
airbubbles in come through the tubes ... so..?
Ah well, thanks so much all for the great advice and tribulations.
I am very pleased at the results of several of my adventures w/ my car
in the past few months, including CV axles, new front struts, fixed
cruise control, and clean MC. It went as smooth as it did with all
of your help. Thanks again.
It depends on the humidity. Around here where the humidity is always around
100% a few minuites is all it takes , but never use brake fluid from a
container that has remained open overnight unless you live where the
humidity is Zero.
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