How much brake fluid would ge good?

"scube" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@j73g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

They're pretty stiff. They won't move very much at all.

Provided you've bench-bled the new master cylinder, there won't be any air left to get into the lines. If you hook everything up again and the pedal feels as firm as it was before you began, then there's no air in the lines, and a full-bleeding is optional (but a good idea anyway).

If air does get in there, no, it's not horrible. It will eventually be ejected at the wheels. Occasionally air can get trapped in the rear caliper's mechanism and be a bit difficult to remove. There's a workaround if you run into that.

Hope it helps.

jim beam wrote in news:TrCdndFIQYrRYfjZRVn- snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

"Preserving fluid"? Mine was bone-dry except for the little brake fluid they used as an assembly lube.

it's preserving fluid - taste it. brake fluid is hygroscopic and in a humid climate, where an uninstalled system is open like this, would rapidly corrode and seize all m/c's in storage. store an old m/c out in the garage for a season and watch what happens!

jim beam wrote in news:TeKdnaAZ0osO0PrZnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

Ah, well.

In any case, the OP ought to bench-bleed first, as that makes the installation quite a lot simpler and would eject any assembly fluid as well.

may as well do it on the car. bolt on, connect but don't tighten the fluid lines, bleed away. good deal less messy than getting fluid all over your bench. the car has to be washed off after installation anyway.

Hmm, so, just put the new MC in and attach the hoses slightly and then bleed the master cylinder? Interesting approach. I guess just bolt it onto the booster and and attach the hoses. I like the fact that it would be connected to the brakes which I could pump from. I may have misunderstood you of course...

That's my usual approach. I wrap a shop rag around each fitting and bleed it by pressing the pedal and keeping the reservoir full until the rags are getting wet. Then I tighten the fittings and bleed each wheel until the fluid is clear... I rarely see bubbles come out, just murky fluid. It's a really lazy approach but it works for me. Disclaimer - I have not had to deal with ABS, and this may not work well with ABS.

Be sure to wash all the areas well when you are done.

Mike

It's my understanding that the conventional system should not be affected by the presence of ABS. The fluid chambers are different, so I don't see what one fluid would do to the other fluid in another reservoir.

"scube" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

ABS Master Cylinders are much more complex inside.

Well, to answer my own question, I used a little less than half a quart of brake fluid. I probably would have gone through the whole quart, but I couldn't get the rear left valve loose.

Using my flare wrench, I couldn't loosen the rearleft bleed screw. The head is rounded and I don't know how I should go about turning it w/ out breaking it. Any suggestions?

Once loosened I can replace it with a new bleed screw I guess.

Any one w/ experience here? Thanks!

I was afraid the penetrating oil might contaminate the brake system. Is there a compatible lube I could use in this application, one that might be better in a 'brake systems' situation?

It's a pain because I didn't get to finish flushing my Brake System. I got the new MC on and made sure to bleed that, but I couldn't drain all the lines. The line going to the rear left tire is the guilty bleed screw... I'm not horribly worried, I just I wanted to get that old fluid out of that line. I also hope all that old fliud stays in that line and doesn't migrate throughout the rest of the system, but I guess it makes sense that it would eventually mix together, but hopefully not too soon.

Thanks man!

If you know you are going to replace it anyway, try the vice-grips.

Yeah, this is what I'm thinking. I need to make a run up to the junk yard and see if I can locate one. Maybe a few, I doubt I'd find my identical car, just similar ones a year or so apart. I couldn't find simple bleed screws anywhere, just the fancy ones that have valves or something in them so you can bleed them easier. I've got a one-man brake bleed kit which is quite simple to use, just a bottle w/ a tube going to the bleed screw nipple, so I'm not interested in these more expensive screw types.

Did you check with the counter people at Autozone? IIRC, they keep ordinary bleeder screws behind the counter for a few dollars each.

"scube" wrote

sweet, I'll check that out. I've got a MC core to return....that's great!

I'm curious how much fluid I'll lose when I pull that old screw out.

Thanks alot!

That would depend on how many times you press the brake pedal while its out.

-jim