I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
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18 years ago
I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless you have no real option available, then it's better than nothing in a pinch). It works well for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions going, and leaves a nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and pleasant. It will also restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.
When I was a cyclist I used the WD-40 chain lube system. Every weekend I'd spray the "power train" (chain and everything) with Gunk, hose it off, and spray it with WD-40. It's a lazy way to keep the chain clean and lubricated enough for light use, but the chain does wear faster than it does with real chain lube. Oddly, sometimes bicycle brakes work better (don't chatter, more even grip) if the rim is wiped with a bit of WD-40... testament to the limitations of WD-40 as a lubricant.
Mike
Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.
Maybe he can just take the whole manifold off and take it to a welding shop or such and have them remove it, and then re install it?
Bob
I agree with Mike. It cleans up tools really well.
I am restoring an old VW bug and its rust just laughs at WD40. A much better choice is PB blaster or Kroil for penetrating oil.
Remco
WD-40 = Water Displacement formula #40. It never was meant for loosening rusty bolts.
if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
"Michael Pardee" wrote
can :
you have no real
pinch). It works well
going, and leaves a
pleasant.
Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly technicians.
I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then, for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll swoon even before men of a different political party affiliation.)
Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
Brandy? Rav?
I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they make the whole house reek for a day.
Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.
LOL. Reminds me of that joke about having sex in a canoe.
Ulf
Yes. That never even dawned on me. And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
From this we learn a few things:
1) Yes, WD40 is mostly good at loosening money that was stuck in your wallet.2) Popular Mechanics is full of s**te.
There are two and *only* two penetrants I mess with any more: Kroil and Chrysler P/N 4318039.
Yes. That never even dawned on me. And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the exhaust pipe until its removed...
Fwed
So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out, then? :) May all your Hondas keep running.
Remco
Mainly, that you don't know how to spell shit!
nb
It's a legitimate spelling.
Wow, that can be a tuff one.
My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out. This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on that one.) He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the threads. I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find, but I ordered it before I needed it. There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw themselves up on the way out If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop. Heat is always the best choice.
I've used it as a gas starting fluid (old worn out carburetted cars, sub-zero temps). It's good because it's not nearly as explosive as ether, but it will still ignite easily enough to turn your engine over and get it going.
He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces left in the pipe.
It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at Home Depot or somesuch.
In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing. What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.
Lg
Elle: 1 Mike: 0
Mike
Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3 different sizes.
Fwed
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