I broke off my Oxygen sensor

"Schitt" is much more diplomatic...

JT

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire
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On the other hand I DID look at the pictures and the piece he has left in the manifold should not leak. It's broke off almost flush with the edge. The O2 sensor does not have a hold in the center like a lifesaver. The boss for the sensor is thicker, but I believe the casting has enough for holding a sensor. It's a crap shoot maybe. A person could drill a 3/16 test hole to see how thick it is there and make the decision to go forward or not and plug the hole. Believe it or not, O2 sensors are moved around on the manifold like this at times.

Reply to
Al Bundy

...or that you're a cloistered, ignorant, triggermouthed American.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Look again. I can clearly see the zirconia 'thimble' that is exposed inside the louvered sensor tip.

Indeed. What reliable method would he use to plug a hole in cast iron?

Haven't seen it in over 36 years. In a pipe, yes, but not in a manifold.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

Completely apropos of nothing, but I actually love the smell of gear oil. I can't quite warm up to the limited slip additive, however...

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Won't work in his case, the nut part is broken off. But another thing that I have used with some success in the past is a cheap candle. Heat up whatever you want to remove, while it is red hot, stick a candle close by so the wax will melt and run into the threads. It will run in almost like solder. It really works, believe it or not...

nate

Stephen H wrote:

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Maybe you, Mike, Elle and me stumbled onto a hole in the perfume market....

Just watch: a month from now, one of the fancy perfume companies will come out with "Essence de Voiture".. Ahh, the smell of it :)

Reply to
Remco

then,

huggable

in the

I'll

for

they

refresher is out,

smell of gear

additive, however...

perfume

companies will

:)

That's right, I neglected the flip side of the coin, which is of course "What essence should a woman splash on to best 'catch' a man?"

Last time a guy complimented the fragrance coming from my direction, I had to tell him it was only hair spray. :-)

Anyway... I was thinking that the seemingly wide gender divide on the, um, appeal of machine oils may help explain certain other gender trends. Like why there are so few female auto techs?

I dunno. There does seem to be a noticeable difference in preferences.

Getting back to cars and this poor fellow with the busted off O2 sensor...

Reply to
Elle

Easy-Out. There are all kinds of them. I have most of them. Great time saver, but not for this application. The metal is too thin to grab.

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Reply to
=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul

Forgot to mention, Easy-Outs don't work well on rusted or overly tight things without heating the object red-hot with oxy-actyl torch first.

Reply to
=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul

Yes, that's what I have, although I don't recall where and when I bought them. Easy-Out. Probably came mixed in with some pipe stuff I bought at Sears ( Crapsman ) at one time.

A lot of good ideas here. Many good ideas. Take your pick. Of course, a lot depends on where the sensor is located...how easy it is to get at, how much room there is to work on it.

Still, I don't see this as an End of the World scenario. I'm thinking time and patience will get it out, without doing any damage to the surrounding equipment.

I have a can of *Blaster* penetrating oil out in the garage. Man does that stuff STINK! But whatever. It might be a good idea to repeately apply that while tapping on what is left of the O2 sensor to help the

*stuff* work its way down into the threads, presuming there are any threads left, and they haven't all turned to rust by now.

I have some fasteners that are so far rusted, so far gone ( exhaust hangers and such ) that the only way I can imagine getting them off is to cut them off with a disc grinder. They sell em at Harbor Freight for not much money.

In this case, it might make sense to remove the piece of manifold and take it down to the basement workshop where the OP can take his time and beat this piece of metal into submission.

Lg

Reply to
Lawrence Glickman

I do believe it.

Reply to
Stephen H

Me too. I wonder if I am doing something wrong? I usually end up breaking the EZ-out in the screw I need to remove. That then makes the job twice as hard since the EZ-outs are so hard.

-------------- Alex

Reply to
Alex Rodriguez

To be fair, WD works well at what it is designed to do, displace water. I use to carry a can in my car that had bad ignition wires. Whenever it was very humid out and my car would not start, a quick squirt on the wires got the car running.

------------- Alex

Reply to
Alex Rodriguez

Alex Rodriguez wrote in news:dpc727$t7u$ snipped-for-privacy@newsmaster.cc.columbia.edu:

I think it's a matter of drilling a deep enough hole for the EZ-out to go into,if you don't get deep enough,the stress is at the EZ-out's thinner,weaker section.That may be why some like the shorter,square-type of "EZ-out". Also,the EZ-out,when biting into the screw,expands it,and makes it harder to turn.

The EX-out has to be hard in order to bite into the screw and not get chewed up itself.It's hardened tool steel.

Some people prefer a left-handed drill bit,where the drill is used in reverse and aids in turning out the screw while drilling into it.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

WD40 is excellent for what it was designed for. It is a Water Displacement formula, their 40th try....

It cleans up and dries out the insides of distributor caps, it works great cleaning up the insides of starters and loosening seized up electrical brushes. It also rust protects tools and cleans then nice.

It is total crap for a penetrating fluid though....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Used to buy it by the case when living in FL near the beach. Great for door hinges, BBQ grills, etc.

Reply to
L Alpert

I live in the Canadian rust belt, tell me about it...

Reply to
Mike Romain

I'd take that as a clue.

nb

Reply to
notbob

Then you do know......

Reply to
L Alpert

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