Hi Say What?
Actually I've been doing all of the maintenance and almost all of the
repairs on my cars these last 2 score and 4. The sum total of my paid
repairs are two rebuilt automatic transmissions, a trip to the dealer for an
intermittent sensor problem, which they failed to fix, and the time in 66
when I screwed up my first fuel pump replacement, resulting in a bent push
No. Sealed for life. These are not like the old tapered roller bearings you
may be used to.
The rear bearings tend to have far longer lives than the front ones. This
is because they are largely shielded from road splash.
Hi Tegger. Thanks for getting back to me. You're the best!
Yeah, every other car I've owned, except my wife's 99 Grand Prix, has had
the tapered roller bearings with the keyed flat washer, all around, or just
the back, and the rule of thumb I used was "clean them out and re-grease
every 35K. When I took the dust cap off of the 2003 Accord, it looked
similar to the 87 Accord I had...same disposable "peened" nut (I have a half
a dozen used ones in the tool box...figured in a pinch they might be usable
on the opposite side) but when I saw that instead of a keyed flat washer it
had what looked like a sealing sheet metal disk.........I figured I'd better
get some info before starting the disassembly. A few weeks ago it popped
into my little brain that the Honda had about 61K on it and I had never
greased the rear axles. I've seen more than one car on the shoulder with a
broken rear axle, probably caused by a red hot bearing. My wife's 99 Grand
Prix has an obviously sealed rear axle unit. This is the first car I've
owned in a long while that I didn't spring for the whole shop manual set,
because I usually kept them until they were ready for the junk yard. I've
had dealers tell me they didn't want my trade in. Then I'd tell them "no
trade in, no sale", then they would offer $50 and I'd say thankyou, saved me
the trouble of getting rid of it :-) But after spending countless Sunday's
under the car fixing things, and with Honda's being the most reliable cars
I've ever owned, and with just about the lowest recall numbers in the
business, I hope to trade this one in and get another in a year or two.
BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
Thanks again Tegger
I'm sure you're right. Probably GM and Ford products, which is why I'll
never buy another one of those, except my wife insisted on the Pontiac
because a lady she worked with loved hers.......probably the color :-).
Actually I've been happily surprised about the Grand Prix. 60K, 8 years
old, no problems, no rust holes, paint still OK. First GM product out of 6
that did that! Of course it still rides and rattles loose as a goose.
I still do the oil changes, brakes, belts, etc., but I don't call pulling
heads, changing timing belts, changing computers, troubleshooing bad
sensors, replacing headliners, rebuilding jeep 5 speeds, replacing
distributors, replacing rear main seals, replacing marine outboard cranks
and driveshafts, replacing broken turn signal rings, replacing ignition
locks, doing valve adjustments, rebuilding carburators, rebuilding brake
calibers, replacing front wheel drive axles and bearings, replacing struts,
replacing clutches and throwout bearings, adjusting clutches, replacing
pilot bearings, dropping gas tanks, repairing car audio systems etc., etc.,
recreational, unless you define recreational as all work done by unpaid
non-professional mechanics. I assume you are an automotive technician?
A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6
Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
$40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
engine your car had).
Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
That would be nasty... and mean.
It's bad enough that you didn't tell him the short cut method. You
know, where you heat the bearing units up with either a MAPP gas torch
or gentle application of an oxy-acetylene torch to redistribute the
grease and get it back down around the bearings and shaft..
My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little Propane /
MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive, and the oxygen
bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10 minutes.
How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their balls. It's going to
take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the whole weekend, when I'll
have time to try the torch method. Will the grease flow properly with the
car level, or do I have to jack up the other side? Thanks for the tip Jim
The post about the torch was a joke. Don't do this. The "sealed" bearings
get warm during normal operation and that will allow the grease to spread
throughout the bearing. Torching the bearings will only kill them.
Do not monkey around with heating the bearings. That is a bad idea and
is unnecessary. You risk damage to the rubber sealing lip on the back of
Honda bearings go bad for two reasons: 1) impact damage, and 2) water
ingress. They do not go bad because the grease has dried up.
Just leave the bearings alone.
If, like me, you just like doing "recreational maintenance", find
something else to keep yourself occupied, like painting out stone chips
before they rust.
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