I believe I saw somewhere that the caliper piston has to be screwed back into the caliper on some cars instead of just pushing it back??? Haven't changed disk pads in a few years, back then just pushed the piston back into the caliper!! Do I need a special tool if this is the case?
You won't need a special tool for the front.
The calipers that need to have the piston screwed back in are the ones that have the parking brake assembly as part of the caliper. If you have rear disc, you'll find such calipers on the rear of your car. I've heard of people screwing them in without a special tool, but trust me, you'll be much happier with the tool. There are a couple different types. Your local Sears or parts supplier should be able to show you at least one type of tool for this.
Autozone loaned me the tools to screw the piston back in to the caliper. You have to pay for it up front but they refund your money when you return the tool. Can't beat free. I think other parts stores do this also. Have also borrowed BDC reader from them, also.
Even if you buy the brake tool, it's only $8-$10.
I did the rear brake pads in my 05 Elantra (see my post) just the other day. I did it quite easily with a pair of large pliers. The only thing I would say is definitely put some grease around the rubber boot before turning, because it tends to stick and could tear. Really no big problem at all. The front pads have the old fashioned piston which can easily be moved back with a c-clamp. Good luck. PS: Having said that, the tool may be a good idea. I will probably buy one myself now that I have three Elantras with rear brakes to do.
as upoi can see I was asking about front pads. Thanks..I have drums on the rear. Thanks again guys!
for those of you who may/maynot care: I inspected both front hubs and found shims rubbing on both sides...This is a design flaw...the shim has 2 holes in it where it fits on two nubs. On both sides the upper hole was elongated letting the shim rum on the hub...Disks/pads are in good shape, I have new pads on the way, may not put the outside shim in, unless it is a better design than the old one!!!
The shim should be securely attached to the new pads.
So, if it is the same disign, I should drill a hole in the shim and the metal backing plate on the disk, tap it and put a screw in it so it won't elongate again?
I wouldn't recommend that. The screw could interfere with something else. I'd just let it be. In most cases, the shim doesn't move. Every once in a while, I see one that has done what you describe.
"every once in a while" indicates a design flaw! Thanks
Every once in a while = design flaw!
For anyone replacing the rear pads: If you have an Auto Zone store near-by you can get the piston retraction tool for free as a loaner. You have to pay for it when you take it, but get a full refund when you return it. I used it and it works great, makes it much easier - just be sure to loosen the rubber boot before trying to turn the piston. I went around the inside of the boot with a plastic knitting needle to free the boot from the piston, then put a little silicon grease under the lip to make sure it would allow the piston to turn without tearing the boot.
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