pulsation when applying the brakes. It did correct the problem both times.
It was not covered under the warranty. Has anyone had this problem? Is
this a problem with the XG300?
Hi Johnam - I suspect it's not a problem with the XG300 itself as much as it
is a problem with the rotor/pad combination Hyundai selected for the car.
This is not so uncommon a problem with long life pads on any car. You might
want to try switching to a "lesser" grade of pad next time. IMHO, it's
better to treat the pad as the greater sacrificial element of the brake
system, than the rotor. I change out both when I do a brake job so it's not
a matter of getting twice the life out of my rotors compared to my pads, but
softer (easier wearing) pads will greatly reduce rotor warping, thus those
nasty pulsing sensations.
when applying the brakes. It did correct the problem both times. It was not
covered under the warranty. Has anyone had this problem? Is this a problem
with the XG300?
Did whomever surfaced your rotors give you a break-in procedure? If
they didn't, then it is very easy to "imprint" the fresh surface all
over again. Same when you replace the pads.
I used to belive in the warped rotor theory, but I've read several
articles in the last couple of years that suggest a different theory and
I think it makes a lot more sense. The theory essentially is that the
rotors seldom really warp (and you can measure this with a dial
indicator to be sure). The problem is differential friction around the
circumference of the rotor caused by several things such as uneven
buildup of pad residue on the rotor, rust spots from parking after a
rain storm, or coming to a stop with hot pads and rotors and then
holding hard on the brakes.
I too have a 2001 XG & have had a similar problem. The dealer turned the
rotors at my cost to fix the pedal pulsing. I was there in the shop when
this work was done & the problem was caused by corrosion build up between
the metal pad backer & the seats on the callipers. There was a lot of rust &
debris under the stainless steel clips which meant that the pads did not
move freely, thus dragged on the rotors & I assume heated them up. This was
not covered by warranty .
Now, every Spring I disassemble the brakes & wire brush/clean thoroughly
the pad cradles & steel clips, relube the sliders with 'antisieze' . No
problems & my pads last longer .
Two other points: Yes softer (cheaper) pads are a good idea if you're not a
hard driver & if you can find them -couldn't locate any here in BC.
The other minor modification I did was on my replacement pads the metal
backer is not a precision part & I cleaned up the rough surface where they
sit in the calliper cradle by taking a thou or 2 off with a fine grinding
wheel. These pads now fit perfectly & when you spin the wheel by hand after
servicing the brakes thusly, you can feel how much quicker the pads drift
back off the rotor. Made a nice difference on my car.
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