I've got a high pitched sqeak sometimes when the car is rolling.
Braking stops it. Since I just changes the front brakes for the
second time in 3 months I thought I had better check the rear. No
noise when wheels spin free and no feel like a bad bearing but the
rear drums are pretty rusted and stuck on. Used some WD40 and will
check the price of new drums later. Probably replace brakes and drums
as long as I have things apart. 80,000 on the car so it's probably
due. What I'm wondering about is the bearings. It appears they may
be sealed from the little I have read in the shop manual. Can they be
repacked or lubed in any way? If is makes sense I will do any
maintenance otherwise I am thinkng of replacing them because of the
squeak. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
If you have not done a rear brake job yet I would imagine your drums
could be turned and re-used. They can be machined just like rotors to
restore the friction surface. My experience with autozone and brake
parts has been VERY poor. Albany brake linings are the worst you can
get in my opinion. Buy your friction parts at napa(united brand) or
Bearings on most cars now are 'sealed'. Usually the hub/bearings come
as one assembly that cannot be serviced. If you are not getting
abnormal noises(whining/growling sounds, spins rough by hand, etc) then
you do not need to replace anything.
I have this same issue with my '02 Santa Fe (40K miles). I had the
brakes replaced last week, rotors are fine. The high pitched squeal
remains. It usually shows up after going down the road for 15 min
or so. It's also more noticeable when turning left. It's in the passenger
rear. Braking stops it.
All signs point to the rear hub which, I have a feeling, isn't covered. :-\
It's probably best to try to hunt down where the noise is originating.
It's possible that the pad shims are making contact with the rotor. The
fact that you've replaced pads twice in three months also bothers me.
The three month deal was the Autozone premium pads on the front. I
thought the extra $15 would get me pads that would last better :-(.
They exchanged them free but I went back to the cheaper pads that last
better. This summer I will replace the rotors - not a fun job on the
Hyundai. They are chewed up enough I will have problems with
inspection but the car stops fine.
The deal with the rear's is an intermittent high pitched sound that I
seems to be coming from the back end. I tried pulling the drum the
other day but it was rusted to the metal cover for the bearing. I
will get if off today or tomorrow and see what is going on. It may be
nothing more than a new pair of shoes.
The thing with Hyundai parts that is throwing me is the cost compared
to the Ford car and Chevy truck I also work on. When I can replace
drums for $20 ea it is cheap enough and easier than getting them
turned. At $50 it is not a good option. I will admit I have gotten
lazy in that it is much easier to throw $100 worth of parts into
something and be done rather than to figure out what $100 part out of
several is the real problem. ;-)
Don't feel bad. I fully diagnose customer's vehicles, but when it comes to
my own, I typically run out and buy whatever part I think is screwing me
As for getting your drums off, screwing two 8mm x 1.25 bolts into the
holes in the drums should help push them off.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.