That is why a fair bit of margin is left with the tabular torque values.
Lubrication does make a large difference, typically requiring a 25-50%
reduction in torque applied depending on the lubricant type. However, a
very light coat of oil on clean threads doesn't make a tremendous
I much prefer the uniformity I get from keeping my lug studs and nuts
rust free than the issues that arise with rusty parts that will have
wild swings in the torque vs. tension relationship as Brian describes above.
Yes, as I said at the outset, I don't use any grease if I have capped
style lug nuts. Only ones where the stud is exposed through the nut and
not protected from road salt and water.
And brushing off rust doesn't return the surface to its original "clean
and dry" condition. The pitting remains and will dramatically alter the
tension that a given fastener torque will yield.
I never questioned your point about the affect of lubrication on the
torque/tension relationship. I'm simply saying that fasteners
maintained in "like new" condition by the use of grease to prevent rust
is preferable to letting the fasteners rust and then brushing off the rust.
A couple of more suggestions:
*Make sure you are "working" all the components of your car at least
occasionally. A good example would be the electric windows, especially the
rear ones which don't get a lot of work. The electrical motors definitely
work better when used frequently.
*Keep your car clean. There is little more you can do to help it maintain
its good look. With two-sided galvanized steel, clearcoat paint and more,
the manufacturers have ramped up their ability to keep your car looking nice
for years. But you still have to hold up your end.
*Be the same "fiend" concerning maintenance you always were with the older
cars. With the older ones, you did it in hopes that you had "saved" it.
You treat these new ones well from the very beginning (SO many don't), and
they will treat you well. And I am quite sure that you understand that this
means a WHOLE lot more than just oil changes.
Hope this helps.
That's interesting, as I rarely use mine and it's been fine, too. In a
poll about this on the Elantra Club site, the results seemed to indicate
that seized cables were actually more of a problem on cars where the
E-brake was used frequently. Typical driving conditions weren't
specified, so it's hard to draw any solid conclusions. However, it seems
logical that all else being equal, an E-brake that's used more often
will wear the cable seals faster and draw more moisture and foreign
material into the cable. In dry environments, it's probably a non-issue,
as moisture is the main problem. In damp areas, it could be a problem.
I'm not suggesting that people shouldn't use their E-brake when they
need to, but unnecessary use may actually be detrimental to the life of
the cables on the Elantra.
I haven't looked at an Elantra in particular so I can't comment on it
specifically. However, almost all cars I've owned in the last 30 years
had a place where the bare cable exits the cable sheath. This is often
inside the rear brake, however, on many cars it is external to the brake
and really exposed to road salt. If this cable is never moved, it will
rust right up to where it enters the sheath seal. Then when you go to
apply the brake, this rusted part is pulled into the seal which at the
very least destroys the seal. Alternativley it refuses to enter the
sheath rendering the brake ineffective or, worse yet, enters the sheath
and binds inside causing the brake to refuse to fully release.
Even the cables that exit the sheath inside the backing plate are still
exposed to moisture and brake dust which can cause them to bind. Using
the brake regularly will move this cable and remove the surface rust
before it can form a huge annulus that can't be knocked off. This is
the same as brake rotors. Use then often, and the small amount of
surface rust is removed each day keeping the rotors pristine. Let them
sit unused for say 6 months (excluding SS rotors obviously) and see what
they look like. And at that point the pits are so deep that the pads
can't remove them and they will eat the pads in a hurry. Same principle
applies to the brake cable and the sheath seal.
I too have greased/oiled/lubed the lug nuts of all my cars since my 72'
Mazda RX2 when I rotate or change tires. I hand tightened all of them, and
never in these many years have I had a single one come even remotely loose
(ish), much less be hard to take off. They're always nice and tight, but a
good grunt loosens them and they spin off easily.
What I think is bad is having to -stand- on the tire bar or put an
extension pipe on to loosen nuts that were put (back) on by the dealer/tire
store. That happens all the time. Having to do that must put a horrific
strain on the lugs themselves. Maybe that's how 'tight and dry' is
supposed to work. I don't like it, scares me.
Never happens when I lube'em up. And the threads stay clean as a whistle.
I never liked it when I heard lug nuts sing to me as I took them off either.
For the record (I know this is not relevant to the specific point of this
post - I'm just using the platform for a while,,,), the primary reason that
torque is speced and such a big deal made out of it on today's cars has
nothing at all to do with the studs on most cars. It has everything to do
with alloy wheels and cheap rotors. They warp.
True, which is why you don't want the lugs to be overtightened, whether
it's due to some idiot with an air impact gun or due to lubed threads.
The result is the same either way, warped rotors. Perhaps it's just
coincidence, but I've never had a warped rotor on any vehicle I've
owned. I've always used a torque wrench and always kept the studs clean
Are shops actually getting away from air wrenches for wheel
installation? I know of only one shop locally that consistently hand
torques wheels and they even mention this in their advertisements. I
drive 35 miles to get tires from this shop just for this reason. There
is one local garage that does my inspections that will hand torque at my
request, but I don't think they do so routinely. I know of no other
garage that does this, although I haven't had my car back to the Hyundai
dealer so I can't speak for them.
Around here everything from Pep Boys to local shops uses torque wrenches
these days. It's almost unheard of to impact on a set of lugs now. They
run them on with an impact set to low torque and then torque them up with a
hand wrench. You still see some torque sticks, but not so many.
The front rotor do have a tendency to seize to the hubs, though
considering the heat involved and the length of time they're likely to
be on your car, it seems questionable whether applying anti-seize
between them would make any difference. If you've got nothing better to
do, it can't hurt.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.