Trooper 3.1TD Engine Heater

Cheers it was redarding that threw me thanks for the explanation know the engines well but do you really use the Cummins 50 Ltr engines in your
general Highway Trucks Ploggo
wrote:

etc
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wrote:

the Cummins N14 is a 14 liter engine the 50 series was a typo, I actually ment the 60 series 12.7l Detroit diesel. about the biggest engine you'll find on a highway truck in the US would be a 16 liter.
-Bret

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Yep 14 litre known over here as N855 or NT or NTA 60 QST 60 = 60 Litre, the 50 known as KT KTA KTTA 50 dependent on Build Ploggo
wrote:

etc
using
this
on
gives
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etc etc
Please use some punctuation Ploggo, so we may understand the meaning of your posts.
Huw
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funny
the
heater. How

It doesn't work and the switch does not light up unless the ambient temp is low. It actuates the exhaust restrictor which is well known to stick shut. Best to leave it switched off or to diasable it. Pattern replacement exhausts are available with a straight through pipe which means you can dump the critter.
The ceramic heater is just an electric heater fitted to provide instant cabin heat with a cold engine. It works well and needs the heater control switched for maximum heat and the blower on to work. Superb.
Our trooper has

managed to

find the

If this

has two

Two fairly small batteries is a more accurate description. This is part of the cold weather package which is standard fit in the UK. It consists of extra batteries, that damned exhaust shit, the good cabin electric fire and the diesel fuel heater element. Also seat heating on many models.
Huw
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How big are the batteries? Here in NZ I have an '88 Bighorn 2.8 that cranks and starts fine during winter with a 480CCA battery, tho I normally use a 740CCA so I can power spotlights and other things while it's dark and the engine off. Then again, I'm in a part of NZ where winter temps overnight don't usually drop below 2*C
rhys
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wrote

It
cabin
heating on

cranks
use a

and the

usually
Oh! You are not in the USA. Anyhow, it's 1.35am and I am not about to go and look just now. The 2.8 is direct injection while the 3.1 is indirect and slow to start in cold weather without heater plugs. IIRC it has two batteries of about 480CCA.
Huw
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Around Rotarua you just park it over a geyser in winter? :-/
--
madiba

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wrote:

cranks
a
the
usually
Thats a good Idea :) But no, I live around Hamilton, which is in a river valley, meaning we get cold air landing on us from up int he hills, and the rest of the time I'm out on the coast with nice warn sea breezes :) but either place I have never needed the heating system. If I was in Otago or Cantabury, it would probably be useful, but up here no real reason to use it.
rhys
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wrote

referred
seats,
anything
piston
The older 2.8 was a direct injection engine while the 3.1 is an indirect injection engine so the whole top end is different including the combustion chambers and pistons, also the fuel system and service requirements. All in all, although they may share a similar block dimension, they are totally different engines.
Huw
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wrote

dogs up Lathkill Dale (Gorgeous) ,.;:?!! -:) a bit of punctuation lol
Anyway the group seems to have arrived at the right conclusion over the exhaust restrictor cum engine heater thingy
Isn't a solenoid an inductor therefore the symbol is correct !!, however depends on which countries standard you are working with
Huw advises that the 2.8 was a direct injection engine cant argue but I'm a bit surprised !!!
The worst areas for rust in my experience are within the pressed & welded front & rear cross members they are crap!!
Have no real problems with basic service work Oil change is a doddle compared with some of the engines we have to service !!
I have driven a 3.0 a number of times & yes first impressions are I must one of these, my big concern is the reliability particularly the problem with fuel diluting the lube oil we have had to repair /rebuild more engines than I care to remember with this problem & I'm talking major failures e.g. cranks engine blocks rods, in fact on some failures the only recoverable parts were not worth recovering oil pressure sender & when a 16/20 v developing in excess of 3500 Hp engine breaks loose you don't want to be standing to close.
The moral of it all is never buy the first release of any product thats ground breaking. Isuzu are a fine company normally associated with a good or better than average product. Their trucks were driving around the Middle East in their thousands when I first worked out there over 25 years ago & were those are those conditions tough, they quickly sort out the good from the bad with hindsight they should have put more up front into the development but then they were under pressure I suppose from the marketing boys!!!!
Ploggo
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wrote

dogs up Lathkill Dale (Gorgeous) ,.;:?!! -:) a bit of punctuation lol
Anyway the group seems to have arrived at the right conclusion over the exhaust restrictor cum engine heater thingy
Isn't a solenoid an inductor therefore the symbol is correct !!, however depends on which countries standard you are working with
Huw advises that the 2.8 was a direct injection engine cant argue but I'm a bit surprised !!!
The worst areas for rust in my experience are within the pressed & welded front & rear cross members they are crap!!
Have no real problems with basic service work Oil change is a doddle compared with some of the engines we have to service !!
I have driven a 3.0 a number of times & yes first impressions are I must one of these, my big concern is the reliability particularly the problem with fuel diluting the lube oil we have had to repair /rebuild more engines than I care to remember with this problem & I'm talking major failures e.g. cranks engine blocks rods, in fact on some failures the only recoverable parts were not worth recovering oil pressure sender & when a 16/20 v developing in excess of 3500 Hp engine breaks loose you don't want to be standing to close.
The moral of it all is never buy the first release of any product thats ground breaking. Isuzu are a fine company normally associated with a good or better than average product. Their trucks were driving around the Middle East in their thousands when I first worked out there over 25 years ago & were those are those conditions tough, they quickly sort out the good from the bad with hindsight they should have put more up front into the development but then they were under pressure I suppose from the marketing boys!!!!
Ploggo
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wrote

is
ideas?
rear
larger
including
service
It was close though :-)
& walking the

lol
the
however
but I'm a

I was surprised in '91 when they launched the indirect 3.1 after several years with a technically more advanced direct injection. I assumed that it was to provide a more refined and quiet passenger environment.

welded
Plenty of wax on mine. These crossmembers are not prone to road wash as is the wheelarch area so the waxoyl just lasts longer.

No problem draining the oil. It's the filter that pees me off. No matter what you do, the oil runs down the slanted filter, down my arms and onto the diff area. Belt adjustment is also a pig.

must one

problem with

engines than

e.g.
recoverable
to be

thats
good or

Middle
ago &

good from

marketing
Not the best engine that 3.0. We can agree on that. It does go well in most vehicles though.
Huw
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wrote

the
a
one
than
or
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Never any probs with rust in my '88 and I'm in a country where the sea is never more than 100 miles away. Plenty of time out here on the coast with no rust.
rhys
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wrote

welded
doddle
sea is

with no

Hmm. The old square models are now falling apart here and failing MOT inspections because of chassis rust. The bodies are also well rusted, especially wheelarches and door bottoms, especially rear doors. The difference between the last of that model and the first of the more rounded model is very pronounced indeed from far and close up.
Huw
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wrote

How much salt is used on the roads? Here it's only grit, sand and small rough stuff, not salt. At least as far as I know. And the older Isuzus are still pretty rust free. I prefer the look of the square Isuzus, All new 4x4s seem just too soap-bubble like, only the Defender range from LR, the Toyota Landcruiser 70 flatdeck and the Jeep Wrangler really look like solid offroaders now.
rhys
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wrote

pressed &

the
coast
MOT
rusted,
The
more
Enough, most of the time. Yes, it is salt!
Huw
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wrote

dogs up Lathkill Dale (Gorgeous) ,.;:?!! -:) a bit of punctuation lol
Anyway the group seems to have arrived at the right conclusion over the exhaust restrictor cum engine heater thingy
Isn't a solenoid an inductor therefore the symbol is correct !!, however depends on which countries standard you are working with
Huw advises that the 2.8 was a direct injection engine cant argue but I'm a bit surprised !!!
The worst areas for rust in my experience are within the pressed & welded front & rear cross members they are crap!!
Have no real problems with basic service work Oil change is a doddle compared with some of the engines we have to service !!
I have driven a 3.0 a number of times & yes first impressions are I must one of these, my big concern is the reliability particularly the problem with fuel diluting the lube oil we have had to repair /rebuild more engines than I care to remember with this problem & I'm talking major failures e.g. cranks engine blocks rods, in fact on some failures the only recoverable parts were not worth recovering oil pressure sender & when a 16/20 v developing in excess of 5000 Hp engine breaks loose you don't want to be standing to close.
The moral of it all is never buy the first release of any product thats ground breaking. Isuzu are a fine company normally associated with a good or better than average product. Their trucks were driving around the Middle East in their thousands when I first worked out there over 25 years ago & were those are those conditions tough, they quickly sort out the good from the bad with hindsight they should have put more up front into the development but then they were under pressure I suppose from the marketing boys!!!!
Ploggo
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Wow, what a lot of responses that one started. Now winter is finally upon us (UK) oh and we won the Rugby. I will be trying the bizarre enginey heaty thingy. In my previous truly mega scientific experiments I could not seem to get the engine or the car to warm up faster. Obviously this was all done in a scientifcally controlled environment, under strict test conditions. My test equipment (my hands) could not detect any difference trying the car one day with the heatery thing and one day without. I will keep trying.
Oh as a matter of note I tried the switch with different combinations of heater controls, hot cold etc. none made any difference. However if the car was warm the switch would not light up.
As for reliability I will wait and see we have had the 3.1TD trooper for 1 year and it has been great. I hate to say this but most of the time the wife takes the kids to school in it. In the UK apparently that's a crime and we should have some crap little girls shopping car that does 5000 miles per gallon. Well lets see who wins when we play chicken eh? My kids love the trooper especially when we go off road and most of the time my wife likes it except when the insurance need replacing. Anyone in the UK know a good deal. We pay 750 around $1000 ish.
It is slow but gets there eventually, and always feels like nothing could stop it. All I need to do is fix the Air Con
Now anyone want to tackle global poverty?
"Dave Wood"

which
is
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