Re-Varnishing Wood Veneer Featured

Aug 19, 2025 Last reply: 4 months ago 3 Replies

On my XJ40 the wood around the ash tray in the centre console and around the radio/AC controls has had the varnish crack and start to peel.



Some notes on my repairs in progress:



Levering off the metal 'clips' around the posts that hold the veneer panels to the ash tray assembly was really hard. Some of the clips broke.



With a very small screwdriver that has a sharp protrusion at the end due to past abuse, I've been able to chip most of the old varnish off by levering into the wood and then peeling it up from the broken edge. Often you can work it inside the separated area to expand that until it cracks off in a large chunk.



That leaves marks in the wood, but they can be reduced with 800 grit sandpaper afterwards. Sandpaper takes the varnish off too but you need it more coarse for that, and then it's easy to go too far since the wood veneer is so thin over the metal backing. I tried heating it with a hot air gun, but by the time the varnish softens the glue holding the veneer to the metal gets soft too and it comes off as well. Stripper apparantly causes the same issue.



Cabot's "Jarrah" wood stain seems to roughly match the original dark colour of the veneer where it's been covered from the light, so I'm trying that.



I'm not sure what's best for the new varnish. I've got some Cabot's Cabothane Clear Gloss polyurethane varnish which seems as good as anything I've seen suggested in old discussions online. It says "UV resistant" but also "not suitable for extreme UV exposure", so they're hedging their bets a bit. Maybe an exterior varnish would be better? Suggestions welcome (unlikely as that may be).


Looks like you’re doing a really thorough job! The sanding approach makes sense given how thin the veneer is, heating or chemical strippers always risk lifting it off. For the varnish, Cabothane Clear Gloss should be fine indoors, just go slow with multiple thin coats to avoid runs or bubbles. If you’re worried about UV, an exterior-grade varnish could help, but it might be overkill unless the car sits in strong sunlight a lot. Overall, sounds like a careful, logical approach. Patience is key here!

Thanks, all finished now, I might follow up later with a photo when I have time to find one. In a couple of places where I did make a small hole in the veneer, mainly when I tried using heat to soften the varnish, I mixed up the fine sawdust from sanding with PVA glue and this worked well enough to fill the gaps. Since it's not normally in direct sunlight I did go with the interior varnish. Where I did go wrong was, in my ignorance, using a brush to apply the new varnish rather than using a spray can or gun, so I didn't get the perfectly smooth surface of the original parts. But it looks good from some angles at least.

The main issue now is of course I stained that bit of veneer to something like the original darkness, but now I have to do the same to all the other wood of the car to match. At least I have spares for most of the other bits in my parts car, so I won't have to drive around with holes where the veneer is meant to be like I was doing for that piece. Although since the old varnish isn't flaking off the other parts yet, other jobs get higher priority - mainly fixing spots of rust.

Here's the ash tray lid before, showing the original varnish cracked and flaking away:

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Here's the ash tray and "ski slope" afterwards, with the new finish also bringing out much more detail in the veneer:

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