I am almost ready to bring my 87 XJ to a mechanic to replace
pivot bearings (there is noticable play in both rear wheels
and I can see the pivot shafts are loose).
He says this is about a 7 hour job, but could end up costing
more if the hubs are no good. How can this be discerened
and what is entailed in parts and labor if they are bad as
well? He estimates a $500 for pivot bearings if the hubs
I see you got some proper answers from jag-lovers. They explain it about
as well as can be. It is an easy job at a very low cost. The only
foreseeable problem would be if the aluminum in the hub was out of round. I
have replaced the bearings on both my 1967 Jag and my 1988 XJ40 (nearly
identical) and neither had a hub problem. I doubt you will find you have
a problem. Just replace it all the same way it came out -- but with new
Thanks for the the advice. Jag-Lovers is obviously THE place for
answers. Sometimes I feel there is a big disconnect between the Haynes
manual (4- step remove and replace), the mechanics (7 hours) and the
Jag enthusiasts (It's easy and inexpensive).
Do you really just do as the responder to my Jag-Lovers post says -
remove shaft, races, turn the hub and repeat, then replace? What about
the issue of adjusting (floating?) the new bearings? I tend to want as
much info. as possible, so thanks for your patience.
A couple of things.
If you are intending to do work on your XJ40, you need to get the service
manual CD from JDHT. It runs about $26 including shipping from the UK and
it is MUCH more detailed (in most areas) than the Haynes.
Most of the stuff on these cars IS easy and inexpensive. When I bought my
XJ40, I needed a new steering rack. The local independent guy quoted me
$1500 for a re-built rack completely installed. I bought a re-built with a
lifetime warranty for $250 (at the time), it took 45 minutes to swap the
units out and another $59.00 for a front end alignment. Total cost: $309.00
I can go on and on. When it comes to repairs, these are well designed cars.
Some of the basic designs, however are flawed. For some reason, Jaguar
switched from tapered bearings to huge ball bearings for the differential --
a bad decision.
On the pivot bearings, if you replace everything in the same order -- you
will be fine. Unfortunately, I can't at this moment give any more specs
since one of my Jag buddies has my CD and Haynes to do some repairs on his
car. If I remember correctly, it is a matter of tightening it all down
tight to seat the bearings and then backing the nuts off slightly to create
free spin without free play.
I hear you. Just to clarify, my car is a Series III. My gut is the
same as yours about tightening, then backing off for free play, but
others have talked about ruining the bearings from incorrect
adjustment. My lack of funds for paying a mechanic may necessitate
taking this on myself. A friend has the Jaguar service manual which I
Assuming the XK40 and SIII XJ6 have the same pivot bearing design, are
there any issues, tips or tools I should know about? Thanks!
Your SIII XJ6 and my 1967 420 are much more similar than your 1987 XJ6
and my 1988 XJ6 (XJ40). Your SIII has the inboard brakes as does my 420 and
I believe the hubs are interchangeable -- unlike the '88 which has the
brakes attached to the outside of the hubs.
There really are no special tools or tricks to this. Most of it is
common sense. Like wheel bearings, I tighten them up to seat them then back
the nut off. The same should be done in your case. Once it is done and you
think it is all back together again -- drive it around the block and then
pull the wheels and check it. If all seems OK then drive the car for a week
and pull the wheels again to check. Then at one month. If all seems OK at
that point, you should be OK and you will need to inspect them when you take
off the wheels every 3-4 months to repair something else. (Did I say that
If you have the service manual that it will most likely give you the
torque tightening pressures so you will need a torque wrench. Some thing
you should probably have anyway if you intend to do work on your car. Make
sure you get the wrench in metric or standard -- which ever the SIII is. I
really don't know which yours is since my 420 is standard and my XJ6 is
Now I have the Jaguar Service Manual and the Haynes Manual. The Jag
manual is actually not as helpful.
One thing I am trying to determine is if I have to remove the hub
carrier just to do the pivot bearings. It appears I can just move the
wishbone out of the way, or move the hub carrier out of the way (I'm
just looking at manuals as it is pouring rain today).
The guy I borrowed the service manual has an 85 SIII and an original
XK-120 with full spats over the rear wheels! This guy is the real deal
- even played his bagpipes at the last car show...
You have made me bring out the manuals since it has been a while since I
did this. I am assuming the rear hub on the S3 is the same as the 420. I
believe you can replace the bearings by slipping the hub clear of the
wishbone. Personally, however, I would pull the 1/2 shaft free and remove
the hub to inspect the wheel bearings while you are at it. I am a firm
believer that if you have to pull it apart anyway, you might as well check
everything else while you are there.
It depends on the conditions of your hubs!!
On the 420 -- it took a torch and a 5 ton press to get the 1/2 axles out of
the hub. On the '88 -- the 1/2 axles simply slid right out. It all depends
upon how long it has been since the 1/2 axles were out of the hubs. With a
1987 -- I would think the axle would slide right out of the hub with the
gentle persuasion of that universal Jaguar tool -- the rubber mallet --
but one never knows with a Jaguar!!!
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