1982 CJ8 six cylinder spark problem

also check the ign box (drivers inner fender under water bottle) if back is melted, it is bad or on it's way out.

I got suckered with those symptoms and an inductive timing light and went after parts.

It was plugged idle tubes in the carb. The lack of or wrong amount of gas reaching the plugs affected the timing light implying a spark problem.

I figured it out after there was nothing electrical left to change...

Here is a link on the idle tubes and the fix for them. I can fix them from the top in about 15 minutes now that I know how to do it.

Mike

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I have a set of metered files for welding torch tip cleaning so I used them to oversize the crimped end of the idle tubes inside the venturi cluster. It seems to help keep them clear longer. They have drill bits that size at welding supply shops for reaming them out too.

The venturi cluster will come out from the top if you just remove the choke butterfly plate. The choke rod can stay put. This makes a trail fix real easy if the tubes block up out there. Has happened to me a few times.

Mike

breyfogle wrote:

Any ideas on what clogs the passages? Offroad, dust injestion seems likely but even around town I seem to have to clean the jets every 3 months or so.

CJ Bill, CJ!

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

All I can say is I can buy a fuel filter for an injected YJ:

Bill,

I hadn't thought about this -- so I appreciate the suggestion and tried it.

I have two dwell meters so I tried them both.

The dwell is holding solid -- not bouncing around at all.

(Which is not surprising in the sense that the motor only has about

So -- what now; more suggestions please .....

Mike

Michael Pomeroy

Thanks for the suggestion.

I inspected it closely. No obvious sign of any problem.

So still stumped ......

Mike

Michael Pomeroy

Mike,

Didn't say this in the initial posting because I didn't think it relevant, but original carb is gone and there is a Weber on there now.

And I don't know for sure, but looking back and thinking back I believe I've had this problem for some time -- even when the original carburator was still in place. (The Scrambler is driven on an irregular basis.)

Still no joy -- more suggestions please ......

Mike

Michael Pomeroy

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com did pass the time by typing:

Question. Does the rotor move side to side in the distributor or is there oil in the bottom of the distributor?

Your coil could also have a bad connection or be failing. Longer higher resistance wires could be squashing the spark.

If you hold the coil primary about 1/2" from the block and crank you should have a nice blue spark.

Same thing about cracked sparkplugs. They do crack sometimes and the spark will jump outside the engine block or right at the base. A real easy check for leaks like that is to take a 120V Neon lamp like this one

You ground one side to the frame and run a wire off the other. Use the wire to sniff around plugs, wires, cap, coil. IF the lamp lights you found a leak where voltage is getting out.

The other method involves being in the dark and looking for flashes.

No oil at all; rotor and cap are new (second time just in case there was a problem with the first) and I don't see any unusual movement at all.

Replaced the coil with a new one. Plug wires are brand new as well.

When it does "spark", it does look good.

New plugs.

All the above done as obvious "solutions" to the problem. So far, no good.

Thanks for the suggestions ......

Mike

Michael Pomeroy