2002 Grand Cherokee Hard to Start

I've seen this message posted several times, but no concrete resolution, so thought I'd post to see if anyone has any other ideas.

I have a 2002 JGC, which is hard to start when the engine is warm (after a 45 minute cool down or so). It seems to start fine first thing in the morning or when the engine is hot (shut off for only a few minutes). When I experience the problem however, it takes between 7-15 seconds to start, and I can sometimes smell fuel outside the vehicle (no drips anywhere).

I've had the car to a dealer who has:

- Replaced the fuel pump.

- Cleaned throttle body/valves.

- Replaced the fuel pressure regulator.

- Replaced the computer.

- Performed hours of other diagnostics.

I still have the problem. At this point, I'm assuming the pressure test is testing OK (so maybe not injector related). Any other ideas?

Reply to
Argo
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Take a closer look at the fuel pump relay and the crank position sensor. Codes won't always be set if these fail intermittently.

Reply to
Outatime

Reply to
bllsht

Over the last week, the dealer has:

- Tested the injection system.

- Tested a bunch of sensors.

- Checked all the grounds, battery, etc.

They suspected it could be carbon build up and suggested having the valves cleaned/replaced if necessary. A compression test showed 1 cylinder down in the 120 range, so the valve job is uderway. Ugh.

Reply to
Argo

Sounds like an expensive guess to me.

Reply to
bllsht

Reply to
Argo

There isn't any thing to break in the trottle body. It's just an air valve.

I'd be looking hard at the spark system.

Reply to
DougW

When my Jeep gets hard to start, I clean the connection on the CPS with a spray contact cleaner or WD40 and am good to go again. I also clean the TPS which seems to help with cold starts too. When it's connection is clean it does idle up better cold.

I have an old beast but still....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

No surprise there...

I'd agree with your flooding theory, but it's not caused by the T/Body, as it has nothing to do with fuel. It just regulates how much air is allowed into the engine. It is most likely an injector slowly dripping fuel into the intake, causing a pool of fuel and a mixture that is WAY too rich for starting. It will then take several revolutions before the engine will start. It may run a little rough for a few seconds after startup also.

It's a simple diagnosis, and you can even tell the idiots how it's done... Just run the engine until it's at operating temp. Shut it off, unbolt the fuel rail and pull the injectors out far enough to see the business end. The leaking injector will be obvious. Note that this is done with the injectors and fuel line still connected to the rail, as the system must be under pressure to see the leak.

Or, since these guys seem to prefer the shotgun approach over diagnosis, they could just replace all of the injectors.

Reply to
bllsht

In article , bllsht wrote: #this is done with the injectors and fuel line still connected to the #rail, as the system must be under pressure to see the leak. # #Or, since these guys seem to prefer the shotgun approach over #diagnosis, they could just replace all of the injectors. #

If it's still under warrenty, that might not be so bad...

/herb

Reply to
Herb Leong

Just for closure, in case anyone runs in to the same problem. It's finally fixed ... heh. I picked it up yesterday. There were two leaking injectors, one leaking outside (they mentioned replacing an o-ring), and one leaking into the intake. Hopefully this is *really* the end of it.

Thanks to the group for all your replies.

bllsht wrote:

Reply to
Argo

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

Lots of expensive parts replaced for a simple problem. Did they finally figure it out, or did you have to tell them how to diagnose it?

Reply to
bllsht

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