82 cj5 Hub

A winch is better for pulling trees or stumps. That said, you won't get into any trouble mixing and matching hubs, as long as they are the same type. By type I mean, "manual" as opposed to "automatic" or "solid". Two manual hubs on the same axle, is no problem. Make sure to get all the bits of the exploded hub out, before installing the new one. I would probably take the whole wheel off, and clean and repack everything, just in case.

Too bad you don't have a video or at least a sound recording. ;o)

Earle

ya we were winching thu the hard stuff but onece it got easy i was just dragging it....should have stopped to winch when it bogged down but didnt.. oh well...

Did you blow out the HUB, or the LOCK?

If all you blew was the lock, you can buy a set of two for less than the dealer is selling one for. I'd buy a set so they are the same on both sides, and save the good remaining old one for a spare.

I tore out a front driveshaft winching a stuck snowplow. I guess "park" isnt a good way to do that. Now I use the long cord and stand on the brakes. I am considering a front line-lock.

the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do something stupid again.

That makes sense to me. You already know that the hub you have now, will break before anything else. Keep it as a "weak link" or fuse. You are of course assuming that the Warn is a better unit. The last set I bought, for my Suburban, look pretty cheap. They have a trim piece, that fell off after a few months. I was not impressed with this behavior. Not from a company with a name like Warn.

Earle

That is what I am running, one warn and one stock with a spare.

You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost $40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he upgraded. Thanks again Greg!

They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the last stretch of 2' of snow.

This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite and they seem to be holding 'so far'.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

CJ5 >

Your reasoning is flawed.

I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff that is inside.

On a CJ, the locking hub changes out really easily. Don't even need to remove the tire now on mine. I would much rather blow up another of them than a driveshaft or axle u-joint. I am running one and one like he is thinking.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeff Strickland wrote: