87 YJ 258 Cold start problems (Long)

I went and got a switch today and wired the sol-vac to it, when I start it up and want it to rev a bit higher I can tap the gas and flick on the switch. I set it up so that when I do this I get it reving at about 1000 rpm then I can leave it unattended while it warms up, with out fear that it is going to stall on me.

Hell the Solenoid is there I might as well use it. :)

After a bit of Google searching I did come to realization that the sol-vac was now dead.....thanks.

With my limited knowledge on these things I don't quite understand how the CTO could control vac advance.

The CTO is a switch isn't?

Never mind my last post I re-read your post and I think I understand. You use higher vac until you get to 155 deg then it switches your vac advance over to ported when the switch kicks in. Correct?

Correct. I removed the coolant temp. sensor that's located at the forward end of the intake manifold. In it's place, I inserted a 155° 3-way CTO switch and connected ported and manifold vacuum hoses to the switch; the third connection going to the distributor. After I had done the nutter, it just wouldn't idle nicely when cold using ported vacuum (essensially 0" at idle). Runs like a champ now.

BTW, I like the solenoid idea. I was thinking of doing that for winching operations. Jim

88 Grand Wagoneer 89 Wrangler 00 Grand Cherokee

I was playing with the sol-vac and the new switch today and found I can get it to idle anywhere from 900 to 1400 rpm, I just achieve the idle point I want and then flick on the switch. From what I have read the sol-vac doesn't have enough power to open the throttle but it can hold it where ever you set it....... now I have to quit playing with it at stop lights :). I also wired my carb/intake manifold heater to the same switch bank and on the really cold days I can flick it on for a few minutes and get the vapors in the intake nice and warm before starting it. I'm not sure where you live but it can get to -40 Deg C here in Alberta and my vehicle sits out in the open when I'm at work for up to 13 hours, it's my version of a glow plug.

Thanks for the info I might consider trying the cto thing out when I get a chance.

That's neat, never though of that for a 'hand throttle'. I will pass that on to others for sure. I even have my old one kicking around and likely will put it back on.

That would be a great thing to have when the idle tubes plug up and it won't idle for crap but runs good over 1200 rpm or for winching.

I got a manual choke kit from Canadian Tire and put it in mine. That way I can drive away in the real cold without having to 3 foot drive the thing until it warms up. The electric choke is just a plain timer that goes off according to how long it has had 12 volts, no matter the real temp.

I can set a fast idle by pulling on the choke when I have the pedal down where I want it, then letting off the pedal and pushing the choke back in. It stays on the fast idle cam until I blip the gas pedal.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Yes the choke coming off so quick is a major down fall, it might work in the States but with the weather here it just opens up way to quick.

I have also read somewhere that someone put a reostat on his choke so that he can vary the opening, I thought to myself there is a guy who is thinking.

I looked at the sol-vac not as a useless piece of junk under the hood but as an opportunity. :)

Jeepster did pass the time by typing:

Hmm..

A thermal switch rigged through the system would work. Get one that is in the correct engine range, say 100F or so then use that to disengange the solinoid. / (NC thermal switch) Fairly simple circuit. IGN>---o/ o------o~~o-.--->sol gnd>----|