'88 YJ 258 ci with carter Hard Warm Start

Oct 06, 2003 46 Replies

Seriously? I thought it was only to suppress RF frequencies that screw with radio reception. I bought the Jeep like that 2 years ago. No telling how long that thing's been gone. . .

How sure are you about that?

Bob

I had your same concern so asked up front. They say no problem, plus it comes with a lifetime warranty. It's hard to pass that up. Especially now that I found out it's only $57. I was calling junkyards and getting quotes between $100 and $125 for a no-guarantee unit pulled from heap. Glad I double-checked the price.

Bob-O

There is a solid-state voltage regulator for Fords... the instructions state that the capacitor has to be installed for the longevity of the voltage regulator. That is the limit of my direct experience with this... so you can say I'm guessing.

I *am* an electronics technician... I can tell you that bypass capacitors prevent spikes, and spikes can kill transistors. They can even cause transistor junctions to 'wear', so that the transistor degrades over time.

Were I you, I'd make sure that that capacitor is installed as the diagram says it should be. __ Steve .

Seeing as someone had 'modified' your wiring already, you should be checking the ballast wire out I think.

I don't know where they come up with 6 volts though, that must be a misprint.

The ballast wire is 1.35 ohms. This is the resistance between the coil positive and the ignition module. With a 12 volt supply and one amp, you should be seeing 8.88 volts at the coil plus with the key in run. Reality says the battery will have more than 12.0 volts and with the alternator kicking it up to 14, the coil power comes up accordingly.

The ignition module needs this ballast wire or it will fry pretty fast. I asked Accel about this when I put my Accel coil on. The coil will run on both 9 or 12 volts, but the ford module needs the 9. I am not sure about the condenser, like you I thought it was for RF, but the other person who posted about the ford regulator needing the spike suppression kinda makes sense.

Mike

" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote:

Well, I hooked up the new module today and forced myself to check the voltage at the coil before cranking. It was 6.0 volts. Then I cranked it and it popped right off. Shut it off, cranked again, popped right off again. Note that it was a sunny day as well, which has been the traditional time for the Jeep to be difficult. Now it's been running fine all afternoon. I've got a new capacitor on order.

I checked that during diagnostics the day before yesterday. It read higher, but when I checked the resistance of my leads the difference turned out to be 1.3 ohms.

With a 12 volt supply and one amp,

I don't profess to understand it, but the only time I see battery voltage at the coil is during cranking (back when it was causing trouble). I didn't check the cranking volts at the coil with the new module yet. I was too gassed from finally hearing the think crank up.

You can't imagine what a freaking load off it is to have this thing fixed. I've been stressing for months about this. I was tossing and turnig at night, undergoing severe self-esteem issues and everything. I spent Saturday (while waiting for my part to come in) bringing my

1973 Ghia back to life just to reassure myself that I actually knew something about spinning a wrench. (the valves a little gummy after sitting for 2 years, but it's running. I also figured out a problem I was having with the dual carbs that made me leave it sit for 2 years).

I can't thank you enough for all your help. Now I just need to keep my fingers crossed until the capacitor shows. I wish I could park it, but with 6 kids and a hectic schedule, I'm giving in to pressure and driving it.

I dug through some of my books trying to understand why I thought that, but couldn't find anything about radio interference. When I ordered my part at Advance, the catalog (this thing is not in the computer listing) heading mentioned something about radio interference. In one of my books, it did describe how to troubleshoot a bad condensor by observing the release spark when the points open. Big spark means bad condensor and little spark means good condensor, and bad condensors lead to premature failure of the points. Obviously, ignition systems have come a long way, but the principle seems to be roughly the same (judging by my dead ECM).

Thanks again,

Bob-O

Interesting....

You must have a different setup than my 'Canadian' emissioned CJ7.

6 volts is strange. But when the engine is running, I bet it come up some. The alternator charges the system up to 14 volts plus and the resistor in the circuit only takes the same percent out.

6 volts is a 50% + hit on the power to the coil. Man that seem really high.

Hey, but it works, who am I to argue? ;-)

Mike

" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote:

yeah, maybe you're used to metric volts. :)

I'll check and let you know. I'm sure I'll do some re-checking of the troubleshooting flowcharts just to satisfy my curiosity.

It works !?!?!?!? Shhhhh!!!! Are you trying to jinx me or something?!

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