1. Home
  2. Jeep and Willys (new and old)
  3. 91 Grand Wagoneer stalling in morning

91 Grand Wagoneer stalling in morning

My GW tends to stall unexpectedly w or w/o warning first thing in the morning, until it is fully warmed up. I have replaced the ignition module, with maybe a 75% improvement. It still stalls. This morning after about 5 min of normal running it seemed to go quiet, the voltage meter dropped, I stepped on the gas after pulling over and putting it in neutral, the meter returned to 'normal' range and as soon as I eased my foot off of the gas pedal, the engine quit. It would start repeatedly but not STAY "started". After about two minutes and four or five attempts it started and stayed running all the way to work...

It has 89k in relatively good shape, everything works, except gas guage. Had a recent oil change at Jiffy Lube last week, which also seemed to improve the stalling problem...

any suggestions?

Reply to
mmiller
Loading thread data ...

That could easily be a bad connection on the main body ground. It is a mesh cable that runs from the rear of the engine head up to the firewall. It controls the power to the ignition module when the key is in run.

The vehicle can still steal a ground, lots of times it's through the gas pedal.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mmiller wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

May also be a bad connection on the Crank Position Sensor. A friend had similar problems that was traced back to a very dirty CPS connector, once cleaned the problems went away.

Snow...

Reply to
Snow

have you checked the O2 sensor?

Reply to
Mark12211

Mike, would it be possible to run a wire in parallel w/the existing main body ground (the mesh cable)? Would it be possible to provide an alternative ground? What sort of wire/cable/gauge would you recommend for replacing or possibly running in parallel w/the existing mesh ground?

-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Reply to
Wblane

For testing I use a battery booster cable, but otherwise I use a battery cable from the negative post to the body. Basically the ground then comes from the body to the battery and on to the engine block more or less in one solid path. My Cherokee is wired that way right now. So is my CJ7.

The engine to body one has to be open mesh for vibration resistance. This corrodes way too fast for my liking so I usually get creative with covered battery cables.

You have to make sure the ground is large enough to handle all the current draw which is why I go with a battery cable. They sell them with loops on both ends.

Mike

Wblane wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.