96 grand cherokee abs light

An ABS sensor is shot.

Crank Position Sensor bad or dirty connection, or loose.

Geez, here we go again...

It is widely known that green makes the ABS not work right.

THE SKY IS NOT FALLING.

Yes, it is good to take a closer look, no you will not kill anybody.

ABS is a safety feature that one does not have to think that it is there or not, but if it is there one can behave differently than if it is not. The ABS light being on means the feature is inactive, and the rest of the braking system can be relied upon to work properly. ABS prevents wheel lock in an emergency, if the ABS light is on, then the wheels can lock in the emergency, and you should be aware that this will happen.

It is interesting to note that there is no evidence that ABS systems reduce traffic fatalities.

Initial studies even showed an increase in fatal crashes in ABS equipped vehicles.

Later studies reported no increased fatalities, but no decrease in collisions

"Despite impressive test track performance, the on-the-road safety benefits of car antilocks are disappointing. They haven't cut the frequency or cost of crashes resulting in insurance claims for vehicle damage. Studies by the government, Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, and automakers find that cars with antilocks are in more single-vehicle crashes than cars with conventional brakes."

ABS warning light is not the same as the brake warning light, try reading your link.

http://www.>>

nunya did pass the time by typing:

^^^ I found your problem. :)

Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for dangling wires.

Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.

Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.

1) fuel pressure regulator has failed 2) check valve in pump has failed Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow. Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.

In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing, then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.

That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.

20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running tires low eats fuel.

resposes to various solutions.

the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS sensors are still attached.

a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)

our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.

I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start. this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or overnight.

oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.

the windows are tinted too.

Thanks Bill, that link says the same thing that I said.

There are TWO brake lights, one that indicates a failure of the braking system - the parking brake is partially engaged, there is a fluid level issue, or similar - and the other indicates the ABS system is inactive. If the braking system failure light AND the ABS light are on together, then there is a potentially serious issue that can make the vehicle unsafe to drive. If the ABS light is on by itself, then the only consideration is that the brakes can lock up during an emergency manuver.

http://www.>>

nunya did pass the time by typing:

Hmm.. and the ABS lamp is still lit? That's odd. Try cleaning the ABS sensor connector, it might not be a critical fault. But it should be storing something. It doesn't light the light without trowing a fault of some sort. Usually when my connector gets full of road grime it causes the lamp to light as the jeep goes over railroad tracks or bumps. That throws all sorts of faults. Use some plastic safe contact/electronics cleaner and dilectric grease. Don't forget to clean the backshell on the connector that's where the grime gets trapped.

Leaving the key On won't keep the pump running, it only primes for a set number of seconds. You have to go to the Off position then back to On.

Go get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and watch what happens when you start and when the engine is turned off. If it goes up, that's normal if it falls down to 0 you have a leak in the regulator, check valve, or a sticky injector. You can check the regulator by hooking up the gauge and running the engine. Pull the vac line off the regulator and the fuel pressure should jump 3-5psi. If it does then the regulator is probably good and the problem is most likely your fuel pump. The check valve is built into the fuel pump.

I tend to think 20 is a bit low, my ZJ runs closer to 50 and will go down to 20 only after the a long highway drive.

Mine too.

DougW did pass the time by typing:

I ment to say ABS computer connector. But cleaning the sensor connectors is good maintenance anyway.

When you start the car, the ABS light comes on during a self test period, then should go out. Does it go out or does it stay on.

If it goes out, does it come on when the vehicle begins moving - I am not sure what the speed threshold is, but my BMW turns the light on at a walking speed - or does it come on as a result of applying the brakes?

Does it come on at random times that you can not peg to any event at all?

According to the links that Bill provided, it seems that your trouble is the front wheel speed sensors.

You said that your brakes work properly and the pedal pulses, but this shouldn't be possible if the ABS light is on because the ABS light being on specifically means that this will not happen. If the light comes on during the self test, then remains on, I'd be looking to the instrument cluster, not any of the sensors. The self test is a time that the system looks at the circuitry - including the speed sensors - and if the test is successful, the light turns off. The system then constantly monitors itself, and when a falut is detected, the ABS light will come on. (My experience is that the ABS light will remain on until the next time the car is stopped then started again, I have never seen an ABS light come on then go out before the ignition is switched off.) If the light remains on after the self test is complete, and before you begin moving, then I would be looking to the instrument cluster as having an error. If the brake system was keeping the light on, there would be a fault code, if the instrument cluster was having a problem, there would not be a code generated and the light would not go out after the self test is completed.

Green and tinted windows? That's the problem ...

"nunya" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

I haven't seen it mentioned in the threads anywhere, but have you tried disconnecting the battery to reset the indicator?

Mike S

98JGCI6-Clyde

Any ABS fault is supposed to reset everytime the vehicle is started, then return if it is still present AND the vehicle is moving. ABS doesn't care that it doesn't work IF the vehicle is stopped - the trip hasn't yet begun. ABS only cares that it doesn't work if the trip has been started, then it doesn't care if the vehicle is moving or stopped, the ABS fault display remains.

If the ABS fault report is due to an actual fault, there should be a code stored.

What condition is the ground strap between the head and the firewall in? That could cause most things.

I would be looking really close where the tow truck hooked on for a damaged wire to one of the ABS sensors. I am thinking a slight squeeze short or a punky body ground can cause strange things.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nunya wrote: