96 Cherokee Won't Start

Greetings,

My 1996 Cherokee Country died suddenly yesterday and now won't even turn over. I've replaced the fusible link to the power control center and checked the starter relay which powers the starter perfectly. But it still won't start. There is no power to the coil when in the on position. Is there a fuse or another fusible link I'm overlooking? All fuses I've checked seem in great shape. It's a 2wd inline 6 and the keyed ignition switch seems to function correctly.

Thanks.

Reply to
Tamiami
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Apart from pulling and checking every fuse in the power center (under the hood)...

By "turn over" do you mean crank or the engine just wont turn at all. If the engine won't turn at all then the problem can be the solinoid at the starter motor.

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If you don't want to mess with it, just disconnect the battery, remove the wires from the starter, drop the starter, and take it to PepBoys/Canadian Tire/etc and they can bench test it for you.

...

If by "turn over" you mean it cranks but does not start then keep reading.

pull the codes.

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I'm thinking that on the 96 they didn't allow codes to be pulled other than with the scantool. Try anway.

There is a relay (ASD) that powers the coil.

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You can swap it with the AC relay for testing. However, the jeep will prevent the engine from starting if it's missing any critical sensors. CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) is one of the most common no-start problems.
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Look on the side of your engine by the dipstic for a small connector that runs down to the transmission. This is the CPS harness. Unplug and replug that connection, then try starting again.

Reply to
DougW

Thanks Doug. The engine will not turn over at all when trying to start from the ignition switch. When testing the starter with the starter relay, the starter works just fine in turning over the motor. I will try swapping the relays to check the coil. When using the key to try and start there is nothing at all. It seems that the crank position sensor would not block the circuit to the starter motor while in the cranking ignition switch position. The darn thing just seems dead from the key. I'm about to crawl under and check the neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny for loose connections, but after that I'm at a loss.

Thanks again.

Reply to
Tamiami

The NSS will definitly do that. Try starting it in N vs Park.

I'm reading from the 1998 ZJ service book (likely close) The engine starter relay (next to the ASD relay) is also something to look at.

Basically it closes when the NSS closes and that is responsible for providing 12V to the solinoid to crank the engine.

Here is an extract, doubt anything changed.

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Reply to
DougW

Thanks again Doug. You wouldn't happen to know easily which NSS connector pin holds the +12V?

Reply to
Tamiami

It's a ground system so you won't see 12V unless the key is in the start position.

The switch just throws a ground when it's in N and P The wire running to that pin should be a 20 Gauge Black wire with a white stripe.

If that turns out to be the problem then

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how to clean/rebuild it. First thing to do is check the relay to make sure it's getting

12V when you turn the key to start.

Looking into the relay socket. 29 __ 26 | __ | 30 28

27|

26 will go 12V when the ignition switch is in run or start if it doesn't then check the fuse (F12) in the same area It's a 40 amp fuse.

28 shouldh have 12V from it (also from fuse 12)

When the relay energizes pins 29 and 28 are connected through the relay. That gives 12V to the solinoid by the starter and will cause the engine to crank.

Reply to
DougW

Looks like it's going off until tomorrow. Will keep you posted if you'd like.

Reply to
Tamiami

If you turn the key and nothing happens, the problem can be the ignition switch itself OR the Neutral Safety Switch. The Crank Sensor would allow the motor to crank, but it would not start and there would be a Check Engine light and code.

The Ignition Switch is two parts, the lockset (part you put the key into) and its linkage, and the Switch that is connected to the lockset via linkage. If the key has a different feel than you are accustomed to, then the linkage or the switch has failed. I had an ignition linkage that broke at the part that allows the steering to tilt. I was able to start my truck, but I could not turn it off. (It was a Bronco, so your mileage may vary.) I had the linkage in my CJ5 break somewhere, but I can't recall the symptom.

The swtich has contacts that fail.

I'm not sure if the NSS will generate an OBD II code, but for certain the ignition switch and linkage will not generate one.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Reply to
L.W.(Bill) Hughes III

Yupper Jeff,

I had a similar starting issue. I had to get under the the driver side dash, follow the rod down the steering column to the switch and replace the switch. It takes about an hour of effort, and the switch is well under 20 bucks. The trick is not to disturb the rod coming down the column too much. If disturbed too much, then pulling the steering wheel off of the steering column to get to the upper guts, adds time and aggravation to the endeavor by having to reposition the rod at the point of the ignition key cylinder (ouch).

Tamiami, you can trail the rod down the same way as I did with my 1987 Jeep Cherokee. The rod is internal until you are way under the dash.

Two sure signs that you ignition switch is bad:

1) through the past, the motion of turning your key has gotten easier and easier through time. The resistance of the key cylinder is contingent on the rod and switch. 2) in the RECENT PAST (within 6 months, say), you've had to turn the key to the extreme limit of it's rotation ability to get the starter to engage. The contacts in the switch are worn / further apart.

Disconnect the battery before beginning the endeavor. Do not let the positive wire touch any grounded surface as you can potentially damage the computer. Therefore, remove the negative connection first, then the positive.

When you have to old switch disconnected out and in your hand before the trash can, take a small screw driver and insert it into the rod's connection port and shift the switch to get a feel of the action. It's quite different from a new one. It will also shed insight on why one of the mounting has a elongated slot for installment adjusting when placing the switch back on the column.

Ken

I'm not a mechanic, Just a seasoned Jeep Owner.

Note: any time you disconnect the battery, your jeep computer will go through a re-learn mode when you reconnect.

Jeff Strickland wrote:

Reply to
kjlouisiana

My 96 still wont start after replacing nss all the fuses an the relay also did the starter still wont sart it wont even crank its getting power to it but the little wire doesn't light the probe while turning the key

Reply to
Dylan

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