Alternative defrost vent duct

I can't think of anything that isn't going to be a restriction. Up here I want all the defrost power I can get.

I recommend a different gauge.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Yesterday I bought a new plastic one to replace my torn almost paper like vent. Would a more flexible plastic vent work for you? how tight is the fit back there?

how thin is it?

Where did you buy it?

I was thinking I need something flexible, like the stock but better quality and more flexible.

It is the same size and shape as the stock vent. But this one can be pressed on without tearing. I bougt it from the local jeep shop

The part that's a problem for me is the Plastic casing connecting to the vent outlet near the window. When I drilled out the dash for the new gauge I found the plastic casing on the other side which I drilled into. The gap from dash to casing was an inch or less. Very tight for any gauge.

So I need a replacement for the casing and the accordian duct to the new casing.

Bill

Here is an idea for you. Continue on drilling so the gauge physically fits right through the vent then run a small silicone bead around it to keep it basically air tight if it doesn't fit snug enough. Drill careful and it could fit tight enough not to need glue (silicone).

Even if you go through the flex duct, you can drill 1/8" holes in the edges of the hole at or through the strap and nut and bolt the duct onto the plastic vent. A bit of silicone or even foam insulation spray would seal it.

You are in California right? So defrost isn't as critical as up here in Canada and if you tossed in the big GM blower motor, you still would have double the flow vs 3 times with no gauge stuck in the vent. ;-)

Just a thought.....

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

I'm working on the same problem. I won't have my solution installed for a few weeks, so I can't send you photos yet, but here's what I'm doing:

I'm removing the stock oval ductwork and the plastic manifold that it connects to. By manifold I mean the plastic piece that the oval ductwork connects to just under the windshield. This is actually the piece that interferes with the gauges.

I am making a new manifold out of PVC pipe parts cut longitudinally in half. This manifold has 90 degree elbows at each end and a piece of PVC pipe in the middle. I'll cut it longitudinally halfway through the pipe to create a flat surface to butt up against the bottom of the body cowl under the windshield. The 90 degree elbows will point down, and will be at the ends of the manifold, rather than in the middle, as on the old manifold.

I've made an outlet adaptor that goes on top of the heater box. This adaptor has two PVC flanges and replaces the single oval duct flange.

I'll then run 2 round hoses from the two new flanges on top of the heater box up to the elbows on the new manifold. These hoses, instead of running up the center like the single oval hose does, will each run up around the sides of the gauges.

I hope that explanation is understandable, but if not, ping me back in mid-November and I can send you some photos of these new parts installed.

How freaking special are these gauges you folks are willing to got to all the work to use?

Mike

Jeff Scherb wrote:

And why not mount a spacer plate to dash so your gauges don't go in so far, cookie sheet painted black or whatever color might work well.

The gauges, in my case, have already been bought and the hole in the dash drilled. So, A. I can't return the gauge. and B. Even if I did there is still not enough room for any gauge to fit against the stock oval ductwork as Jeff discribed because it is too close to the dash.

Bill

Jeff, Thanks for that reply. Sound's interesting, I'd like to see it when it's done.

Bill

FWIW, have you ever looked at SCAT hose?

That's what I use to run the supercharger in my ZJ. It is designed to hold high pressure/vac at high temp and not to collapse. Think of it as super duty drier hose. :)