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Any Decent Jeep Repair Shops in Ornage Co, CA. To Recommend?

Greetings. I've decided to throw some more money at my YJ and see if I can find a shop to pull the head on my 4.0L and do whatever is necessary to get rid of the loud exhaust noise blowing into my exhaust manifold from the engine. It sounds like one of the Autopia putt-putt cars at Disneyland when it is under demand (I'm tempted to say that it sounds more like an old truck in TJ, but someone might be offended and want it deported). Funny thing is that my exhaust manifold is in perfect condition. It's embarrassing to drive lately because of the noise. I hear other Jeeps configured like mine, and all I hear is the rich Flowmaster woofing, but mine makes a hell of a racket under my feet and in front of the firewall. My "master mechanics" said that I had sticking #3 and #4 lifters when they pulled my valve cover, but that they couldn't do anything without pulling the head and sending it out. They elected not to do that because they were afraid that they might cause problems with my valves or other original components after rebuilding the head.

Any validity to this? I really want to have this problem fixed. Harvey's no longer exists, and I don't know if Mike opened up another shop around here. Any recommendations for a good Jeep shop?

Regards,

Doug Gavilanes Garden Grove, CA.

Reply to
D Gavilanes
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Lifters make a clack clack clack noise when they are sticky.

You really sound like you could be describing a loose manifold, I would put a wrench on a couple of the bolts just to see.... You also could maybe spray some WD40 or carb cleaner carefully along the intake/exhaust gasket as it runs to see if you get a sputter. If you do, you have found the trouble.

If your head needs work, a compression test will tell you. You need to do one before you tear into anything.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Greetings. I've decided to throw some more money at my YJ and see if I
Reply to
Mike Romain

Could be a cracked manifold too. They are quite common on the 4.0

Chris

Mike Roma> Lifters make a clack clack clack noise when they are sticky.

Reply to
c

Mike makes a schlorp-schlorp sound when he's gagging down mancock.

Mike'll suck on it until it spews.

Reply to
Hugh B. Williams

Manifold is fine (replaced multiple times - Banks TorqueTube a few months old). If let to idle for a long time, eventually, one of the lifters begins making a loud tap-tap-tap that sounds like a small hammer on metal (like it's low on oil). It comes and goes randomly, but only happens after idling a long time. That's my sticky lifters. When I'm driving, I hear exhaust noise, same as if I had a cracked manifold, on other side of firewall in front of my feet. I thought that my manifold had cracked again for the fourth time, but it's fine. Cat converter and Flowmaster are fine, too, but noise is right at engine. I've spent good money too many times paying labor to replace the crappy Banks manifold that keeps cracking, but this time the manifold is fine. I used to have more power, and pulling onto the freeway at 65mph (3200-3300rpm) was never a problem. Now I have to floor it to develop 60mph when I need to merge. Sometimes it gets there, other times I'm lucky if there's light traffic and I can get in at 50mph. Eight months ago this engine ran great, like new, and delivered between 13.5 and 14mpg. Now I get 9.5mpg since winter. I had noisy ignition (detected on AM radio - I suspected bad cables), so shop changed plugs. Cables, distributor cap, and rotor were said to be fine at the time. Tires are 33s, gearing is 4.11. My performance is down, my mileage is down 17%, and the YJ is noisy.

Misc. unrelated work performed on YJ in last 9 months: replaced tires - old 32" BFG ATs, AR aluminum rims, with new 33" BFG ATs, AR steel rims. Yeah, added weight. replaced old Con-Ferr double tube bumpers with Warn rock bumpers with tire swing-out. Yeah, another 50 - 60 pounds for the swing-out. replaced brake power booster and rebuilt 2 brake cylinders, changed brake lines. Now it actually stops. replaced old Dick Cepek shocks/3" springs with new Skyjacker 4" springs, RS5000 shocks. Still rides like hell (yeah, I should have gotten the RS9000 shocks).

Odometer difference doesn't account for gross difference in mileage - I've checked with GPS unit, actual vs. recorded looks like about 95%, not 83%.

I'll ask what the shop found when they checked the compression - they say that they checked, but didn't report results on the receipt/summary.

Regards,

Doug Gavilanes Garden Grove, CA.

c wrote:

Reply to
Doug Gavilanes

I would first take a halogen light and inspect the distributor cap with it looking for white spider web marks (arc shorts) or just throw the sucker out....

Then I would use a quart of ATF in the oil and drive for 100 miles or so, then change the oil to try and clean the junk out of that lifter.

You also 'will' have a noticeable power loss when going from worn out

32's to new 33's....

Then I would take a chunk of garden hose, hold it to my ear and run the other end around the exhaust manifold and header when it is running and noisy figuring the bugger broke for the 5th time.... Some breaks only 'show' under torque or heat load...

Mike

Doug Gavilanes wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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