Best hitch for '01 XJ?

I deg to biffer... I see way more 2" receivers. Unless you have a standard transmission I think the big one is the way to go. Check your rear diff... if it's the 8.25, and you're driving an automatic, you're almost there, as far as full ClassV tow package. Those cool rear trays don't look like they work well with the small receiver.... maybe I'm wrong.

I bought the Putnam, since it was the cheapest... and boy, is it cheap! The darn receiver rattles... they told me "yeah, we got a load of out-of-spec square tubing... return it to us for a replacement". Guess how much to ship a big piece of steel like that? I don't even want to know... I don't pull trailers often enough to worry about it too much. Just annoying... Reese is a much better brand, and more expensive too. The fit to the (unibody) frame was great, but the finish on the Putnam was pitiful... ever seen powder coat over weld splatter? And the safety chain holes... look like something I would do with my cutting torch in my garage.

That said, I'd go with the 5000 pound 2 inch one... is that Class V? Your vehicle will do that, in a pinch... you're supposed to use synthetic 140wt in the rear diff and add a transmission cooler, all good stuff (and all stuff I did). I wouldn't even bother with the smaller hitch unless you have a manual transmission, or maybe not even then... those rear trays look useful, even though you can't open the rear door with one full of stuff.

I was able to bolt mine on, no problems with fit... it cost a little over $100 for the hitch. You have to get the wiring kit... get the one that plugs into the jack dangling inside the rear area side panel, near the gas filler neck. Take the little black brick, cable tie it to the internal brace back there and run the wires out one of the body plugs, silicone around the slit you cut in the plug and you're done. __ Steve .

I was under the impression that the class 3 hitch did have a 2" receiver. Am I wrong? He may have class 5 mechanicals, but I don't believe the manual recomends towing that much.....could be wrong though.....been there before

yeah... my bad. ClassIII is #5000 weight-distributing, #3000 normal. I have a ClassIII hitch... that's as big as the manual says to go... *with* tow package mods. __ Steve .

I have a 2" draw-tite on the front of my XJ. Very pleased, easy to install, complete, good directions.

Check here:

HTH

Carl

Do a search for "hidden hitch". That's what's going on my "new" 99 and you also might need the left "stiffner" or nut strip. Look up into the holes and see if they are threaded, if so you already have it. The later models come with the right side already on. These are dealer items and the rear bumper must be taken off to put them/it on.

JoBo

I'm interested!

Thanks to everyone who replied so far!

-Matt- "..."

My hitch (the cheesy Putnam) came with a spring steel wire that grabs the bolts... made fishing them very easy. No bumper to remove, etc. You could get the same effect from a piece of baling wire and some electrical tape. __ Steve .

DISCLAIMER: This is for informational purposes only. I am describing what I did with mine, not telling you what to do with yours. You must judge for yourself if you think this is safe for your situation.

I don't recall what size the bolts are that hold the hitch in place. I think they are something like 3/8-24. You can take one out from the side that already has the nut strip in to use it as a guide.

Once you know what size that bolt is, go to your friendly neighborhood fastener shop - a real bolt shop, not autozone or o'reilly or any such chain. Ask them to get you some Grade 8 (minimum) set screws that are the same size as the bolt used on the nut strip side. These will be something like:

You need to get them at least a couple inches long. For each set screw, you also need two nuts, two flat washers, and two lock washers.

Also be sure to get some fresh grade 8 bolts/washers for the nut strip side while you're there.

Take one of the nuts, apply some loc-tite, and put the nut on the end of the set screw without the allen head, leaving at least two or three threads protruding through the nut. Set the assembly aside and let the loc-tite dry.

Once all your set screw/nut assemblies are dry, put a lockwasher, then a flat washer on them (lockwasher goes next to the nut). Use a little bit of scotch tape to hold the washers in place for the next step.

Using a fishwire or some sort of grabber tool, insert a set screw/nut/washer assembly into the frame rail and fish it into position. Once in position, just let it hang there while you fish in the rest. This is not as hard as it seems. If I remember correctly, there is a slot in the frame rail that will let the assembly fit through. But, you will have to do them in the right order or subsequent fishes will dislodge the ones you've already put in place.

Once you have them all fished into place, get a buddy (or use a jack) to help you lift the hitch into place so that you can position it without dislodging your set screw assemblies. Install and hand tighten a bolt or two on the side with the nut strip to hold the hitch in place while you work on the set screw side. (Actually, only screw them in a few turns, it will help to leave the hitch very loose while you are working with the set screw side).

Now, position the hitch in place (without dislodging your set screws) and for each of the set screw assemblies, simply put on a flat washer, lock washer, and nut, and hand tighten. Put any remaining bolts in on the other side and hand tighten.

Once everything is hand tight, just go back around and tool tighten everything. By using the set screw assemblies, you can hold the 'bolt' and tighten it from the same side - thus eliminating the need for a nut strip.

Mine has been on this way for 4 years or so with no trouble.

If I seem to have left someth>>You can do it without the nut strip and without removing the rear