How to remove `01 Outback headliner?

Hello all,

In pursuit of my repairing the first sunroof in my Outback, I learned I would have to remove the headliner in the vehicle so that I can check the sunroof motor, cable, and attachments to the window. Does one know how to remove the headliner? The headliner is seemingly held in place by the A bar and C bar posts at the edges of the doors and rear trunk. I don't want to mess with that right now because it's plastic and I don't want to break it.

How do I start removing this?

Bradley

Reply to
Bradley Walker
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Probably not what you want to hear, but you don't "start" this project; you either commit to seeing it thru to the end, or you wait.

Whatever, you will probably find it easiest to begin by removing both front seats, and maybe the back seat as well. Next pull the door sill trim, the A, B, C, D pillar trim pieces, the rear view mirror, the sun visors, the dome lamp assemblies, and finally the headliner and sunroof trim. At this point the headliner can be removed thru the rear hatch if you're careful.

Assembly is the reverse, and it really helps to have an assistant. Any of the little metal clips that remain in the sheet metal should be removed and placed on the plastic prior to reinstallation (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get that far . . .).

This really isn't as bad as it sounds, and you shouldn't have to worry too much about breaking plastic on a newer car as long as you exercise reasonable caution. Plus it is a good time to take the shop-vac to the interior, as you can now access all of those little nooks and crannies that otherwise are impossible.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Thanks for that information. My main concern is being able to do this without breaking/scratching/tearing the plastic pillar trim pieces. How far off do I need to pull the plastic pillar pieces before I can begin to start removing the headliner?

Reply to
Bradley Walker

Off. You are far less likely to damage the trim if you simply remove the sections and set them aside, as opposed to attempting to work around them. A possible exception might be the trim that covers the rear wheel wells; if you can get enough slack to remove the "D" pillar trim w/o removing these entirely (can't remember, but I think it's possible), then go for it. FWIW, if you somehow manage to put a crease in the trim, leaving a white mark, you can usually "erase" all or most of the discoloration with a heat gun. In the unlikely event that you do break something, Loctite has a product that does a super job of mending this kind of plastic. Can't remember what they call it, but it is a two part process, with a "primer", and a super-glue like adhesive. It just flat _works_, especially on fresh breaks. (And like the original SuperGlue, it'll glue you to the workpiece if you aren't careful ;-)

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Sorry to chop the rest of Steve's good post but this is a very good time to invest in a set of 'upolstery' or 'trim' tools. They are variously shaped spades and hooks and wedges designed to pop those ugly (I have choicer words for them...) trim fasteners loose. I bought a set of 5 'no-name' orange plastic ones off an independent tool truck for $15 that work as well as the $40 branded ones. Try calling some autobody supply places. If they don't stock them they may know who does.

Reply to
nobody

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