Flushed my coolant today. I put the prestone tee in one of the heater hoses and completely flushed everything untill clear water came out. Here's what's got me baffled... When the guy at Firestone checked it with the tester, it was brown. The coolant that came out of the motor was reasonably green. Suprise #2: I bought the Zerex G-05 in the Gold jug.. the coolant was CLEAR!! Wierd!! Why is it that you have to use the G-05 instead of the regular prestone?
What vehicles use Zerex G-05 in the factory fill and what is the dye color?1984 Mercedes and beyond (light yellow)1990 Deere and Company vehicles and beyond (green)2001 Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep and beyond (orange)2002 Ford, Lincoln and Mercury trucks and SUVS and beyond (yellow)2003 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury automobiles and beyond (yellow) You are certainly free to use Prestone, but this is what DC warns you will happen:
I wonder what is in the WalMart no-name concentrate? It appears to be pale yellow too. They also sell the Prestone 50/50 mix, for the same price as the no-name concentrate.
It is hard to say. Industry publications say that the 'automotive' Prestones are all OAT which is what DexCool uses. The Peak marketed specifically for DC, Ford and Mercedes is OAT according to the Peak website.
Most brands either claim OAT or refuse to reveal what anti corrosive package they use.
If you want the old fashioned "Green' coolant it is/was using IAT anti-corrosives. The only company I know for sure still makes it is Zerex in the white jug.
The new stuff is G-05 (HOAT or Glysantin) spec. I wouldn't use anything that doesn't say it contains one or more of these terms in big letters on the bottle. I would avoid products that don't list the package used and only say things like 'recommended for'. If it meets the G-05 standard it will say so clearly.
Wal-Mart used to post MSDS sheets online somewhere, it may well tell you who the original manufacturer is and the chemical composition (other than the ethylene glycol base)
I said "no name" because the name wasn't recognizible. It could easily be made by one of the name brand manufacturers. I'll bet it's the cheapest formulation though, and which one is that? There is a lot of information on the back, including the major ingredients. Next time I go I'll see if I can figure it out.
Ya know, It wasn't that long ago that it didn't matter what brand you bought because it was all IAT coolant....
That basic formula was made by everyone and it had been in use for decades but was no longer able to keep up with the changes in cooling system requirements.
It would be helpful to know if the cheap-ass (pardon my French) stuff is "safe for all uses" like it says on the can. Next time I get a chance, I will see what I can figure out from the label. If so, I know what I would use.
Earle
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> >> >> What vehicles use Zerex G-05 in the factory fill and what is the dye> >> > color?
I just got three gallons of the Zerex G-05 for the TJ, which I plan to flush & fill this week if it gets above freezing, replacing the Zerex green. Billy, any advice? (I already have the flush tee installed.)
Peak offers a "Universal" coolant that is also "Lifetime"
According to their own website and MSDS it contains OAT inhibitors. OAT inhibitors are specifically prohibited by DC, Ford, and Mercedes in the Factory Service ad Owner's Manuals. MSDS:
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That would seem to make the universe a smaller place than you would first think.
On this products main web page they claim to meet ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4340
What are these test you ask... ASTM D-4340 measures Aluminum Corrosion - Heat Rejection at 25% concentration ASTM D-3306 measures pH, Foaming Properties at 88C, Initial Crystallization It would be helpful to know if the cheap-ass (pardon my French) stuff is
I got a third gallon as well, for emergencies. Capacity is 12 quarts, I think. 2000TJ, I plan to keep it at a 50-50 mix.
Already planned on cleaning the expansion tank. This is my dilemma, the last time I flushed a cooling system myself (not including when the new rad was installed in the TJ in May of 2004, and then I didn't backflush completely) I didn't live where I am now. I have well-water here with lots of iron in it, I am wondering if it would be OK to flush the system with this. I can flush either with straight well water or water that's been through the softener; however considering the softener element is flushed periodically with a brine solution, I think that would be a bad idea.
Don't believe everything you read. Technical writers love to dazzle you with bullshit. The 'cheap-ass stuff' is for morons who want to buy the cheapest crap they can get, and frankly...
...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!
Nothing but G-05 goes into my TJL, and the water mix will always be bottled and purified. For that big $20-bill twice a year, I can afford to be choosy!
That's an interesting theory, and I am no chemist, but I understand part of the drive for the new compounds is that they are EPA friendly (as opposed to environment friendly). I figure if it is cheap, it is probably the minimum they could squeak by the EPA, but maybe good for your car. You do not always get what you pay for. Priced a hybrid recently? ;^) It won't cost me anything to read that label.
You can do the flushing with well or 'softened' water until it is completely clear then I would do another one with distilled to get the minerals rinsed out.
Be sure to use distilled to top off after filling with coolant concentrate.
Your hoses are 7 years old now, the general replacement age according to the aftermarket companies is 4 years...
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