Difference between Jasper engines and rebuilt-jeep-engines

Bill : I don't know anything about the other manufacture. But I do know about Jasper's engines. I had a Gofer out of MN. go south on me and it only had 19,910 miles on it. I can't remember the price but I know it wasn't cheep and it was fixed up in the block welded and it let go and antifreeze in the crank case. I don't need to tell you all about that, but they wouldn't honor there work, not a nice conversation about it on the phone. But I called Jasper about there's and had a long talk with them and I felt that there ways of rebuilding sounded like they were pretty darn good. I can't remember what my mileage is on it now ,but I'm impressed with it. If the old engine had not had a crack in the block and I had your problem then I would probably just find a really good engine builder and do that. Just simply because if there were any problem's at least you could stand face to face to them and get to the bottom of any problem's . Jimmie: VP. North Iowa Off-Road Club.

Put down the tools and run away fast until the compression tester comes....

A leak down test tells you crap. It just tells you you have a leak. Umm yup if you didn't have a leak you wouldn't be screwing around right?

A dry and if needed wet compression test tells all.

I mentioned a long time ago that you sure sound like you need a valve job. My guess still seems right...

I mean for sure you have one dead valve. If that is the one with the mushroomed top, then you have a dead rocker arm and a dead push rod and likely a dead hydraulic lifer that caused all the damage.

That was you with the 'timing' ping at idle wasn't it?

I mean a valve job and a couple parts are pretty cheap.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

William Oliveri wrote:

Thanks Mike for bringing humor to my otherwise difficult situation.

1. Yes, I'm the one at idle who had what I thought was ping. However, in retrospect, I remember when I put the aluminum valve cover on it requred studless rocker arm bridges which I changed out. I didn't take out the rocker arm rods so I know they were in the correct place but I didn't return the rocker arms back to the original place unless I got lucky. I didn't know about the importance of returning used parts to the original places and I'm suspecting this was causinging the noise. I fall to this because I took the jeep to 2 shops and they could not hear a ping. One shop said the noise was coming from the valve train and the other shop said I was chasing a ghost (they did dyno testing and rebuilding there).

1. The valve with the "mushroomed top" was not mushroomed and it wasn't this valve. There were all together about 6 valves which had this and this was a little rim/lip big enough to cause a barrier to prevent the valve seal from going on. A little light filing and that took care of that, the all went on. Again, this was not on #2 cylinder.

2. I did a compression test with my cheezy flea market find compression tester (works fine but doesn't keep the air pumped into the guage). This gave me a reading of 100 psi across all cylinders except #2 which was 110. I think when I get a good tester it will read closer to what the mechanic read which was 150 psi.

So, you think the head can be reworked and I'm good to go? I'll go and get a compression tester tomorrow (today tied up) and I don't mind doing the work to replace the head if I'm sure it's the head. How can I be sure it's the head that's the problem and not the rings?

Thanks,

Bill

A dry and wet compression test will let you know the shape of the pistons and rings. If they are ok, then the head is the issue 'if' the compression is strange.

First you remove all the plugs and the coil wire and then hold/tie the throttle wide open.

You then take the compression test 'dry'. If they are all the same put it back together and enjoy!

If you have one cylinder that is low on compression, you then put a tablespoon of any kind of engine oil down that spark plug hole and test the compression again.

If the compression comes up a whole lot, you have issues with the piston and/or rings. If the compression only burps up a very little, then you have issues with a valve or head gasket.

On a 'good' engine, the oil in the cylinder will up the compression of the rings by 2-5 psi or so, not much more and it will do it on all cylinders.

If you have two side by side low and the oil doesn't raise them, suspect the head gasket between the two cylinders.

They 'all' burn some oil and they all make strange noises now and then. Mine will use a liter between oil changes if I am driving it easy. If I am off roading in 4 low hard, I can use a liter in less than a thousand miles or two tanks of gas if sand pit wall running which is more like

500 miles.

Having the head reworked around here in Canada is less than or right around $150.00. There are even heavier or double springs available (GM maybe?) for the valves so your red line comes up a couple thousand rpm I have been told. (the red line 'wall' on that engine is 4500 rpm and I was told it was from valve float.)

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Oh, have you swapped fuel injectors yet to confirm the lack of spark is gas related in #2 cylinder?

Mike

Mike Roma>

Sounds like valves or head gasket, not rings. Your compression check will tell you.

If it is just the head, either get it redone with new valves, etc. or go with a freshly rebuilt 4.0 head. Orange Engine is a quality rebuilder. Locations in Orange and San Juan Capistrano.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

Robert, Is this the place you're talking about?

Orange Engine Rebuilding Address: 1911 E Ball Rd, Anaheim, CA 92805 Phone: (714) 635-4030

If not, can you pass me the number and address?

Thanks,

No, I haven't done that yet. I've gone through two plug changes and still see oil in the cylinder via the plug. It does not happen at idle, only after I drive it.

compression

hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.

rebuilt-jeep-engines.

I'm going to get a compression tester tomorrow and let you know what I find. If I get good compression all the way across then this won't tell me about the oil getting in the cylinder. Does that mean it's definitely the head?

Thanks,

Bill

hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.

I guess one thing I could do if it comes down to it is to rebuild the head and if that doesn't work then have only the short block rebuilt as a follow up.

Bill

hwooooooooosssshhhhhssssst.

If it is oil and not gas soaked, then you must have one nasty blue cloud following you....

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

It's definately oil soaked. I pull it out and wet oil wipes off on my fingers from the treads. Black coating on the element.

However, I do not see at all a blue cloud behind me. Would I see this from one cylinder?

I guess this could lead back to the injector but then, why do I keep getting more oil in the cylinder. If the oil was already there sloshing around, wouldn't it show up just at idle?

I am thinking it's too much gas in the cylinder causing the no spark or no gas, either causing the piston to flop around allowing oil to blow up past the rings.

How does the oil on the dipstick smell?

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

We got two threads going here....

I am thinking it's too much gas in the cylinder causing the no spark or no gas, either causing the piston to flop around allowing oil to blow up past the rings.

How does the oil on the dipstick smell?

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Haven't smelled it yet. I'm out of town and won't be able to see it till tonight. What should I be looking for in that smell? Are you expecting a gas smell?

JasperEngines.

Yes, if you have a stuck injector it will wash down the cylinder and may contaminate the oil with gas.

Same for the plug, give it a smell after a run.

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Yes.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

If your comp gauge doesn't hold, it's probably the check valve leaking or missing - Same valve as a tire Schrader valve - use a two-pronged tire valve tool to unscrew it and screw a new one in. OR swing by a tire shop and ask them to put a new valve in your compression gauge for you. Cost should be Zero or very nearly so. When you do your comp tests: Ground coil hi tension lead or disconnect positive low-voltage lead from the coil. Remove ALL the sparkplugs at once. Have a pad to write down what you get for a high reading. Throttle wide open for all tests. Turn engine over while watching gauge needle - don't stop until at least a couple revolutions after the highest reading. Do all of 'em, then squirt some SAE 30 oil (preferably, or 40 but you CAN use any engine oil) in half the holes and spin it over a couple turns. Check compression on those holes. Squirt and check other holes. If you have one that is down, put the sparkplug back into the hole NEXT to it and try the low one again - No change? then put the sparkplug into the hole on the other side of it and try again. If adding the plug to the hole either side of the hole in question causes an appreciable increase in compression, you have a leak between cylinders - most likely a head gasket. If adding oil gets you from say, 20psi up to

90psi or similar, expect rings not sealing. Ring problems don't normally occur in only one cylinder unless something was ingested and got into that hole, but then you prolly have a bent valve and a hole in the piston! I'm just passing through here - my last Jeep was a WW2 and some 30 years ago, but this IS an inline 6cyl you're discussing here isn't it? They usually have the intake ports grouped - that is, #1 intake is the second valve and #2 intake is the first valve. Look at how the exhaust manifold bolts on - Is there a single "pipe" (I realize it's probably a casting) at each end and all the other connections are wider? If so, it goes E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E.

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rebuilt-jeep-engines.

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