civic hesitates (stutters) between 1500 and 2000rpm

Recently my 2000 civic sir (si in the US) has started to hesitate or stutter periodically. It happens between 1500 and 2500 rpm and I beleive it's usually when it's warm, and I'm accelerating from a stop. Any ideas what this could be?

Reply to
Jeremy Chapman
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You changed the fuel filter?

Checked air filter?

Had any work done under the hood, where some one could have pulled a vacuum hose lose?

Changed the fuel cap?

Reply to
Linuxiac

Reply to
Jeremy Chapman

you'll almost certainly have codes stored in the computer. read them, then report back.

Reply to
jim beam

I hooked up a computer two weeks ago when it started,and there were no codes. My girlfriend said the check engine light blinked a few times on her way to work, so I'll check again. Haven't seen the light come on since.

I'll check aga>> Recently my 2000 civic sir (si in the US) has started to hesitate or

Reply to
Jeremy

Reply to
Jeremy

don't believe you! how did you try to read them?

Reply to
jim beam

Reply to
Jeremy

For the experts: does this sound like distributor trouble?

Reply to
Michael Pardee

in that case, look into the ignition switch. for your model year, there was a recall because the switched burnt out - and symptoms were odd, but left no code like you describe. it's particularly bad if you have a heavy key ring. try using the key on its own and making sure you manually return the key fully to the "run" position after cranking rather than letting it turn back with just the spring. the spring's not very strong, and particularly with a heavy key ring, the contacts only partially engage, overheat, and burn out. and of course, replace the ignition switch if this turns out to be the cause.

Reply to
jim beam

Maybe but with modern cars with 'puters, it's hard to tell.

JT

(If it has a "Check Engine" light, I won't own it!)

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

I was finally able to get the check engine light to stay on and codes to be saved. They're missfire codes and it turns out the misfire monitor requires

2 consecutive trips to trigger the DTC.

The codes are P0303 (Cylinder 3 misfire) and P1399 (Random/Multiple cyclinder misfire).

Reported data is as follows:

Report#: 1 Report Date: 4-16-2007 (8:34 PM) Vehicle Year: 2000 Vehicle Make: Honda Vehicle Model: Civic (SIR) Vehicle Engine Size: 1.6L Vehicle VIN: Vehicle License Plate: Vehicle Mileage: 1230000

Stored: P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

Pending: P1399 Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

MIL ON MisFire Monitor Complete Fuel System Monitor Complete Comprehensive Component Monitor Complete Catalyst Monitor Complete Heated Catalyst Monitor Not Supported Evaporative System Monitor Complete Secondary Air System Monitor Not Supported A/C System Refrigerant Monitor Not Supported Oxygen Sensor Monitor Complete Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor Complete EGR System Monitor Not Supported

DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0303 Fuel System 1 Status Open Loop - due to driving conditions Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported Calculated LOAD Value 94.12 % Engine Coolant Temp 138.20 °F Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 0.00 % Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -4.69 % Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 28.05 inHg Engine RPM 3256 rpm Vehicle Speed Sensor 32.93 mph Intake Air Temperature 59.00 °F Absolute Throttle Position 92.55 %

Reply to
Jeremy

check the ignition componentry [distributor cap, rotor, leads and plugs] and ensure its in good condition - if old, suggest replacement as a precaution. random misfire on all cylinders can be multiple problems, but misfire on #3 is injector or ignition componentry. injector cleaner might be a good idea too.

Reply to
jim beam

Reply to
Jeremy

that's consistent, particularly with aged plugs. for spark plugs, the sparking voltage depends on the gas pressure, composition, etc in the cylinder. if the plug is leaking slightly [electrically] or the electrodes are worn, it may spark at one cylinder condition, but not at the other. same can go for aged distributor caps/rotors.

Reply to
jim beam

Good call, turns out I was able to fix the problem simply by changing the plugs. The old ones didn't even look that bad. Glad I didn't take it into honda, the honda dealership here is terrible, I'd be surprised if it would have came to less than $200 or $300 by the time they got through with it.

Reply to
Jeremy

Thanks for letting us know what the problem was - it helps the next guy. What brand were the old plugs?

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

The old brand I was using were Bosch. I've gone with NGK this time. It's one of the brands Honda recommends in the manual.

Reply to
Jeremy

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