Agreed....... the good thing is this DJ is pre-computer so everything will be plain mechanical and electrical.
All he needs is a 12v test light and some wire to check almost anything we need to test.
Agreed....... the good thing is this DJ is pre-computer so everything will be plain mechanical and electrical.
All he needs is a 12v test light and some wire to check almost anything we need to test.
Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on . From there hit the button and Google should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
(In-line replies follow)
A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
You'll need this stuff eventually:
Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
Let us know how you make out.
He should have one, he reports it is a 232ci I6, so it'll be the Ford cranking and ignition systems.
Earle Hort> Yeah, so far this appears to be a dead Ford-type starter solenoid, but I
You can easily test the solenoid.
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please see:
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
Earle
Another thing to hate the french about!
You mean besides beautiful women, bread you can sink your teeth into, and being right about Iraq?
Earle
You keep the bread, I'll sink my teeth into the women.
Earle Horton proclaimed:
You mean that's _NOT_ a water fountain?
My son-in-law insists that it is only the Parisiens who don't wash, are rude, and are otherwise objectionable. Spain is different. They conveniently opted out of WWII, by "prekilling" a large segment of their population in a civil war that some say was intentional. Although they dispensed with the Fascist regime some twenty-five years ago, you can still see signs of it everywhere. Like an irrational respect for authority coupled with blatant disrespect for every kind of law, I just don't get it. "Courage" does not seem to be a national virtue. Neither does "honesty". Both got lots of people killed or expelled in the Civil War. Paradoxically, this means that brave and honest people stand out everywhere they are found. You recognize them immediately, like they are wearing halos or something.
They got into the Iraq fiasco with us, because they wanted to recoup some of their national glory riding on our coattails. When it didn't work out, they elected a Socialist who looks like Mr. Bean. Their politics is incomprehensible. They are absorbed at the current moment with the question of whether Spain should be four countries or one. Arguments for four are regional cultures, languages and traditions. Arguments for one are the fact that people of Castillian heritage are the majority, everywhere. The most intelligent statement that the Popular Party of former president José Maria Aznar
Courage is hard to define. If you saw the pedestrians in País Vasco you would swear they are the bravest people on Earth. In Madrid they have more fear. In Santiago de Compostela I saw a restaurant advertising vampire fish ("lampreas"). You would have to be brave to eat that.
Earle
That's what Tucks pads are for. (or a few bux cheaper if you stop at Target and get their brand)
and get their brand)
You should be glad you don't have an a$$hole disease and surgery can fix it.
Everybody has to be the straight man sometime, Bill.
I'm sitt> Were we set up, or what?
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required