Do I need to use these clips?

Look at your driveshaft and you'll see that the ends where the new new-joints go are closed in (not open and using u-bolts like the yoke), This is because the U-joint must be pressed into the driveshaft side first and those round clips fit in a groove just above the caps. Then, the driveshaft (with yoke attached to the t-case) is attached and bolted like your picture.....go check out tyour driveshaft and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Do you know how and have the proper tools to put that yoke on?

I had a so called Jeep 'mechanic' install mine because I didn't know the correct way and didn't have a 300 lb torque wrench and he destroyed my diff bearings. He said, like others here have said, "Oh, you don't need new shims and I don't need a torque wrench to do it right". Ya Right!

I then had to take it to a 'real' mechanic to have it rebuilt properly and $500.00 later had a Jeep I could drive again.

You will need the clips on the driveshaft side of the u-joint and be sure the u-joint is in facing the right way. If you have it backward, you will not be able to get grease in the nipple, the gun won't fit on.

The nipple needs to be on the side that has the crack open up when the driveshaft turns for room for the grease gun.

Mike

Shaggie wrote:

I was told by a member of this group that I didn't need any shims at all...

When you put new parts on old stuff, it 'normally' needs to be set up properly again.

You are mixing old bearings that were set with the old Yoke and crush sleeve or shim set.

I would say the odds of it going together properly mixing and matching parts as less than 1%.

You are playing with a differential here and if the end play in that yoke isn't perfect, you 'will' be looking for a new one soon or an expensive repair.

I was lucky and the jerk only fried my bearings, not my ring and pinion too and it still cost me $500.00 to get it repaired.

Mike

Shaggie wrote:

What holds the bearings in a Dana 20?

Does it not use shims or a crush sleeve?

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Maybe mine was put together wrong when I bought it which is why it failed? There was no crush washer when I took mine apart. There was one piece that looked like a spacer but it was solid steel. I guess you could call that a shim.

It wasn't Mike. It was a guy named Will. He really sounded like he knew what he was talking about. You even replied to his post and didn't correct him. Here's his post:

The tc front shaft (or rear, either) does not use a crush washer. The differential pinon shaft uses the crush washer to pre-load the input shaft but there's no preload to worry about on the tc. You might want to replace the seal on the tc while you have it apart, but the only precaution about re-installing the yoke is to grease the shaft/seal to prevent damage from running dry and set the torque as spec'd.

Oh, nevermind. I see what you mean now, Bill. I thought you meant the person who told me I didn't have to worry abou tthe crush washer was Mike. I just got confused. Imagine that. heh heh

Ahhh, I think I am confused.....

I was thinking the yoke is going on the front diff, not the TC, sorry.

Mike

Shaggie wrote:

I am the confused one Shaggie, I will go camping now. Later....

Mike

Shaggie wrote:

Ah! The old Shim Sham Flim Flam! :)

Regards,

DAve

Hey, I still appreciate everyone chiming in trying to help out! My back is feeling better. It's strange. Each time I finish another glass of wine I notice my back just feels better and better... ;-) Hopefully tomorrow I'll get everything all put back together. Thanks again, everyone.

Hmmm...

AAAAAAGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHA! It's the joke that just keeps on giving! :-)