Duel-Temp-sensor

Dirty Ditch Dawg did pass the time by typing:

Unlike oil pressure, a temp gauge needs flow to work properly. I'm not sure a T would work for that reason. It would probably create an air pocket.

This is one aproach that splices into the radiator line.

Anything that gets above the head is prone to air locking and temp gauge sensors usually need to be in the head.

Why do you want two temperature gauges anyway?

Why don't you just put a sensor that works for your new gauge in the proper hole ?

I have a link to the stock ones and what their readings are if this helps:

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:

Doug, i want to do the same thing, only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the block that the original probe went into, than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere, hence the question, of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake, this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water temp, johnp

Dirty Ditch Dawg did pass the time by typing:

I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill another probe port?

Mike, my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block, tiny,,,grrr, the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch, the probe wont even get into the block, , and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line, to keep the water flowing over the sensor, i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek, , otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already, but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming the temp reading would be more accurate. , johnp ,

With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.

The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.

A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.

If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to tap the head, but......

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:

Mike, or anybody, i went back to the auto-parts store, they looked in the book, they cant find a 3/8 sensor, and yes i took out my sensor, its 3-friggen 8ths,,,FRIG,,, from what the guy said he couldent even find a3/8ths sensor for an electrical unit, , im going to contact autometer tommorrow, but it dont look good, , and im not looking to tap out my block, this sucks, , johnp ,

Mike Roma> With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one

Mike, or anybody, i went back to the auto-parts store, they looked in the book, they cant find a 3/8 sensor, and yes i took out my sensor, its 3-friggen 8ths,,,FRIG,,, from what the guy said he couldent even find a3/8ths sensor for an electrical unit, , im going to contact autometer tommorrow, but it dont look good, , and im not looking to tap out my block, this sucks, , johnp ,

Mike Roma> With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one

Mike, or anybody, i went back to the auto-parts store, they looked in the book, they cant find a 3/8 sensor, and yes i took out my sensor, its 3-friggen 8ths,,,FRIG,,, from what the guy said he couldent even find a3/8ths sensor for an electrical unit, , im going to contact autometer tommorrow, but it dont look good, , and im not looking to tap out my block, this sucks, , johnp ,

Mike Roma> With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one

What kind or which model of gauge? Does it have the sealed tube with the bulb end? If so autometer says it has the bulbs for the 3/8" sensor holes on the one I looked at, you can just order a different tube.

Thanks Mike, i just got back from the auto-parts store again, and after argueing with him, andf looking in his book, i said the hell with it and got the electrical unit, after showing him that it DOES come with the

3/8 sender, its she sport-comp series, with what he had to refund me, i picked up the Volt meter, im h> What kind or which model of gauge? Does it have the sealed tube with

You are welcome. Jeep engines are way too common to have to do that much work just for a mechanical gauge..... My CJ7 came stock with a mechanical oil gauge. I 'like' that. I can tell when I am down a quart even, the pressure drops a bit when hot.

Mike

Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:

Ya, but im bettin you got an 8 or 6 not a stikin 4banger,,,grin,, , i did get a machanical "full sweep" oil gauge, 20 at idle, and 40 runnin 2500

im wondering how much trouble the gas gauge is going to be, know if i can use my stock sender? i know my stock is 0-empty and 88 full

and the one imbuying is 0-empty and 90 full, sport-comp GM 65-present. gauge number 3514

whats the 2-points gonna do to me? im hoping to use my existing sender,,, dont want to drop the tank,

johnp

hey Mike, I see all kinds of gauges for cj's. Know of any for YJ's Mine's an 89. I'm not sure on the brand I need..... I am aware that all of these jeeps seem to have gauge problems. I'm new at this, but it seems that it's weather related (Moisture). I plan on replacing some, and putting them in the stock position, but I'm planning on adding others (OIL) because the stock gauges have made me paranoid. But the best one I did so far, was remove the cl0ck and replace it with a vacuum gauge....attached it to the intake.... wanted to do the brake line, but didn't want to add another potential leak point. anyway, for the dirty ditch dawg, I don't believe that that small a line would effect the water/temp situation unless you were low on water. Usually those radiators are oversized. I had mine flow tested. The guys say it will cool a chevy 350. The thermostat will flow water accordingly. Like when you remove the thermostat, you can't get the motor to run at normal temp, always runs cool? Plenty of flow. A 1/4 inch line is like PI_Sing in the wind..... good luck Robb-Seattle WA