electrical

He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new' ones were 2 to 3 thousand.

Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off because the field power tag is the coil power line.

So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?

There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real' alternator.

Mike

May not be the best solution, but: when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged. Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.

-Don

That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be unplugged.

Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put just the regulator in?

Mike

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Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put this to rest. It's getting boring.

No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will go high.

As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't there.

If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.

Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.

It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do.. just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.

-Don

Thanks, he will likely do the same.

Mike

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