#&^#%$ Flywheel Removal

You can use the round end of a wrench on a bolt head wedged against something. I have also jacked up a wood block to the crankshaft pulley. I have also pulled the starter and wedged something between the flywheel teeth and the hole in the bellhousing.

Hope this helps.

Carl

One other thing you can do, if I can explain this correctly with text.

The position of your wrench related to the bolts can be used to your advantage. Basically, if your bolt is located at the 12 o'clock position, have your wrench pointing toward 6 o'clock when you start to loosen the bolt. This will give the least tendency for the flywheel to rotate, and you may not even need to wedge the flywheel. Basically if the wrench handle is near the center of the flywheel you will have the best chance of the flywheel not rotating.

Chris

Carl wrote:

Yeah, and once you have the box end of the wrench solidly on the bolt, smack the other end with a big brass hammer. If you don't have brass, be prepared for some cosmetic damage to the wrench end.

Earle

You don't have a Lead mallet? I often use a prybar carefully engaged in the ring gear teeth and fulcrummed against a bellhousing bolt when air isn't available.

Somehow I acquired a brass hammer during my travels. It's awesome, much better than lead.

Earle

I have both. The brass is used way more often, but the lead comes in handy for thumping things like gear teeth.

I like my deadblow, lead shot in a plastic sledge. Mainly because it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just use my small sledge as the form.

I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under $20, but shipping is by weight.

That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood chars it should be good for a long time.

It's overkill for making hammers, but plaster of paris makes an excellent mold material for lead. You can even use plastic wrap as a separator and make split molds with it. Just be sure to bake it in the oven for an hour or so to get it good and dry before using it - lead splatters can make uncomfortable spots on your hands, arms, whatever is exposed if the plaster is wet when you pour..

I made about 10 at once, three 2x4s stacked aND NAILED TOGETHER WITH A 3 inch hole (kinda heavy, a 2 inch would be decent weight), and a one inch thru the center piece for the knurled pipe handle. One more piece for the bottom and wet paper towel stuck down the handle about an inch from the end crosspin ( a 1.5 inch piece of 1/4 inch mild rod to retain the head when it deforms). I split the mold with an ax to get them out.

I ended up getting a hold of an impact wrench and worked the bolts off. Much easier than messing around with the pry bar and breaker bar. Air tools are great and a nice addition to my set of tools (my wife says toys :)

Sometimes they can make all the difference in the world. Thanks for the follow-up.

Carl

On my '82, there are some holes on the plate that the flywheel mounts to. If there are some on yours, you should be able to jam a screwdriver in there and stop it from rotating.

Michael