Got the trans pulled out of my 89 YJ, now trying to remove the flywheel for surfacing. It doesn't show any signs of being burned, grooved, rutted, or pitted, however it is shiny. Does it need to be surfaced?
Six 3/4" bolts hold the flywheel on, and the flywheel just cranks the engine over when I attempt to loosen the bolts. Is it OK to use an impact wrench on these? How do I keep the flywheel from spinning?
Carl
Heh, it is probably OK to remove the flywheel bolts with an impact wrench, but how are you going to tighten them to the proper torque when done? For the best job, the flywheel needs to be resurfaced. If you don't do that, the new clutch disk isn't going to be broken in right.
As for holding the flywheel, you can make a special tool, that holds it from spinning. I have made two or three of these for various vehicles, and they can be a fun exercise in creative design. Or you can remove the oil pan and wedge a two by four between the crankshaft and the block.
Earle
Carl Saiyed wrote:
Robb- I got the flywheel pulled with a socket wrench and screwdriver, but it seems that no one locally can turn it at all. Do you know someone who can turn the flywheel? Apparently the ridge on the back is hard to work with.
Carl
Got it turned at Carquest in Lakewood on Pacific highway SW, just south of bridgeport way.
The piolot bearing goes in the flywheel, right? Where does the throwout bearing go?
Re-assembly tips?
Carl
I didn't see the sensor on the drivers side of the transmission. It's got a grey cord with two wires in it. One red, one white. Runs atop the transmission, plugs into a plug near the passenger side firewall. The wires pulled out of the plug when I removed the trans. Is this the crank position sensor? Any way to get the wires back into the plug, or do I need a new CPS.
Thanks,
Carl
Carl,
You didn't mention where you're at. Nearly any machine shop should be able to handle it. I took mine to one that specializes in Volkswagons here in Ft. Worth, Texas.
Also, another way to remove and install the flywheel bolts is to put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt that holds the vibration damper. On a stopped engine, there's enough force required to turn the engine that it won't affect the torque on the vibration damper bolt.
You need a new one (CPS) now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sCarl Saiyed wrote:
The throw out bearing goes on the clutch fork. Be sure to get it facing the correct way.
The pilot bearing goes in the center of the crank with a gotcha. The gotcha is a foam or felt pad insert inside the crank end that needs to be oiled well with 10W30 or heavier oil to keep the pilot bearing lubed for life. You can did the old one out and clean it, then oil it up fresh.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sCarl Saiyed wrote:
According to the Advance Adapters web site, the sleeve type of throwout bearing that this vehicle uses is very susceptible to contamination. Any dirt that you leave inside the bell housing is going to get into the seal, and make it leak hydraulic fluid.
I saw a "new, improved" throwout bearing on their web site, but I don't know if this is necessary. It seems that cleanliness on reassembly should be sufficient. In view of the trouble it takes to get this thing apart, it wouldn't hurt to err on the side of paranoia here.
Earle
Carl Saiyed wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 14:44:27 -0700 in , L.W.(ßill) Hughes III graced the world with this thought:
now, be nice, Bill... lol
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