should there be washers under the nuts that hold the flywheel onto the rear of the crank? I am thinking yes but wanted to ask to make sure. I bolted the flywheel to my engine today and I could only get the nuts on. Bolts are not original, they are grade 8 ground to work as original though.
thanks
nate
PS - LOVE the aluminum flywheel. sounds awesome even on the stand through a single exhaust, I can't wait to get this all together and in the car.
Are you changing from automatic to manual? The bolts for an automatic are shorter than the ones for a manual (flywheel). Paul Johnson
Nate,
If this is an aluminum flywheel, washers should definitely be used. If it was me, I would use hardened and ground washers, but them I am quite anal about these type of things things . You want to have at least two threads showing (ie, nut fully on bolt plus two theads sticking out).
What provision is there to provide locking for the nuts? Are they self-locking? If not, you may want to consider using blue loctite on the nuts.
Paul (my opinion only....) Warta
Originally had lockwashers, yes. If you don't have enough thread to get the nuts started with washers in place, then the bolts aren't long enough to thread all the way through the nuts are they?
they will start with the lock washers but aren't long enough to tighten down properly with the end of the bolt sticking through the nut. I'm a little hesitant to use a lock washer on aluminum, but I was thinking that at least a flat washer ought to be used. The bolts are *just* long enough for the nuts to properly thread on with no washer, but no longer.
nate
I was afraid you were going to say that... :/
I can get grade 8 hardware and self locking nuts no problems, it's the replacing the bolts that's going to cause me heartburn...
nate
I'm hesitant to do that because the flywheel is SFI rated; I'm sure any mods like that would invalidate that rating...
anyone know how critical the length of the bolt is? I am guessing since the measurement is given in the parts books in 64ths that extra length would cause issues? should I just mock it up with a clutch disc and some clay and make sure that the disc isn't going to hit the bolts?
The good news is that I am pretty sure I still have a pan gasket, if you can do it and make it not leak I would hope that I could do the same :)
nate
John Poulos wrote:
WWTHD?? (What Would Ted Harbit Do)?
I hate to tell you this, but I've seen guys use the shorter bolts without a problem and they only went half way through the nut. It's a good way to get a leg full of flywheel IMHO but it shows most of the stress is side to side. You'd only gain maybe .020-.030 in thread length by using longer bolts before you risk hitting the disk which will add squat to the strength. Having said that, I know you'll trade that .020 for a possible oil leak. BTW, make sure I didn't use con rod nuts on those bolts because the are much thicker.
N8N wrote:
N8, Today, I replaced the clutch and pressure plate on my GT. Attached are three shots of the bolts in question. First, original long bolts in crank flange. Second, flywheel on bolts. Third, lock washers and nuts installed. Hopefully the server will let the pics sneak through.
I hope this helps with your heartburn, Dustybob
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