Harbor Freight Tools: got the 3 ton floor jack

Sep 14, 2004 16 Replies

It's only got 19" of lift though, I just hope that's enough for my stone stock Cherokee. I thought someone here said I'd need 23" of lift!



-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)


LOL!

Man oh man, just how fat and soft are the tires? Do you have those arctic tires on that are 3' wide and 2' deep when soft or something?

I only need to jack my Cherokee up about 2" to take off an inflated tire and about 6" maybe to change a flat....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Wblane wrote:

Where are you jacking at Mike? I use the stock jack point (or close to it) and need all the lift my 3 ton jack gives (depending on "summer'' or winter tires) of 19''.

Snow...

Unless you're installing a suspension lift. ;)

Jerry

I use the axle tubes or the shock/spring mount and just jack up the axle end when working on tires or brakes.

Jacking up the side of the vehicle so you have an unstable wobbly jack fully extended is not my idea of fun.

If I do need to get the whole vehicle up, then I use a plate under the jack so it doesn't dig into my 'paved' driveway and I get jack stands under fast.

Mike

Snow wrote:

Ah I see, I've always used the frame to jack (then I stick the stands under, I use patio slabs under mine if I can't get to the folks place and use their garage)

Snow...

I guess I have been stuck working in dirt and off camber too many times so started jacking low way back when.

I also used that method when working in garages because it is so much faster. Even if the floor jack fails and drops down, the axle will stop when the jack is down, on the jack still. This stops the vehicle from hitting the ground.

Mike

Snow wrote:

Make sure and use stands, i don't trust chinese crap, especially when it can drop heavy things on me.

I have several 12" x 12" platforms made out of 4" x 4"s (two layers 90 deg. apart). I had a concrete block crack on me years ago and stay with the wood block when I can.

I find even a chunk of 2x10 works to stop the wheels from digging in or I use 2 pieces of 2x4 sideways at the front and rear.

I too have had concrete slabs and blocks crack.

Mike

cj573cj5 wrote:

You wouldn't beleive the crap I have to go thru to jack up my Cherokee. First I have to grab up all my brother's spare weight set plates, then some boards to bring up my crap floor jack and jack stands to a high enough level to actually do some good.

-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

I got the 3 ton for 59.99 on sale not for the 89.99 advertised.

-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

Snow when you say frame do you mean the frame rails? The two parallel rails that go from front to back? Is there any problem using these frame rails (if that's what they are).

-Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

You can jack anywhere on the frame rails between the front leaf spring mount and the control arm mount. There is a slight slope in the frame rails near the control arm mount but shouldn't present a problem unless you are on uneven ground to exaggerate the slope. But then again, you wouldn't be so crazy as to jack up a vehicle on uneven ground. The only time you need to jack from the frame is when you need to unload the weight from the suspension; shock/spring replacement, fuel pump accessibility, tailpipe replacement etc. If you are doing brakes, tires, fluid change and almost everything else, jack up from the axles. I can get the wheels off the ground in two pumps with a basic floor jack on the axle. At full extension, I can have the tires about 8" off the ground. My jack doesn't reach my frame rails at full extension.

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that helps.

-Brian

: >Snow... : : : -Bill (remove "botizer" to reply via email)

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