There's a little piece of plastic sticking out at the side just under the
speedo, if you press the outer end (nearest the speedo) of this it releases
a catch at the other end of the bit sticking out and the cable will pull
Hell - is it really that simple. I can't remember how many times I
have been digging around in there thinking - if only I could figure
out hot to get this b cable off the speedo.
Haynes manuals have always told you how to do the easy bits very
clearly and then glossed over the impossible part which required a
double jointed midget with a 3/8th extension drive just to get on the
nut, or a 30 ton press. They also used to have a habit of making you
think it was a simple 5 step job, then you find step 3 is remove the
engine as per section 7A. But, to be fair, they don't seem to get as
many photos upside down as they used to.
Maybe we could ask them to demonstrate how to get the bush out of the
end of the suspension arms.
However I am told they have brought out a Haynes Manual for Sex - the
mind boggles. Hope that doesn't require a midget with a 3/8 extension
or a 30 ton press !
Excellent, many thanks Martin! I'm stripping to try to find all my
water leaks. I'm completely fed up with wet carpets now and have gone
out on an all offensive to sort it out. Probably a fruitless task on a
Defender but if I reduce the inflow a bit it will help.
On my Defender the holes in the floor appeared magically on their own.
LR had fitted foam rubber thingies between the chassis and the
floorpan, which gathered up a muddy poultice guaranteed to keep damp
even in the severest drought.
On the series 3 I used to reverse part way out the drive where it was
on a slope and then I could open the drivers door to let the water
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