How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?

Nov 09, 2003 44 Replies

I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering troubles.


How do you figure there is more leverage? The weight pressing down on the front of the spring has not changed. Perhaps in that they are allowed to flex more before contacting the bump stop?

Anyway, the question I was looking for an answer for, was: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?

Yes, and they screw up your caster angle too. They are also cheap. When was the last time you bought anything cheap that was good?

They look almost flat on mine, with about two inches to the bump stop and one to one-and-a-half inch of bow (guesstimated).

Earle

My dilemma is what to fix to get the steering safer for the Mrs.

I can't tell if the steering problem is the tires, worn leaves, longer shackles or if the vehicle was wrecked and the rear end is tracking loosely.

It feels kinda like the rear wants to go to the left, when at speed, when the steering wheel is turned slightly to the left.

The leaves look a bit on the flat side too.

I'll be taking it to The Big City tomorrow, where I'll be able to find a flat level surface where I'll put my Handy-Dandy Craftsman level finder on the top of the knuckle to check the castor.

Since I'm not made of money I wanted to go about this in a frugal manner. If I could determine if the leaves are beat, a lift kit with OEM shackles would be decent place to start. If the leaves are o.k. then I'd rather install some shims. But I'd hate to do the springs and find out the frame is bent and the cause of the troubles.

I'm just not sure where to start.

I don't think that a "Handy-Dandy Craftsman level finder on the top of the knuckle" is the best way to check the caster angle. The last time I checked the top of the knuckle surface was not machined for this operation. Installation of a shackle lift will definitely decrease your caster angle, which is not good for steering.

Consult the following link for use of the term "castor."

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Earle

OK, then assuming that I correct my caster angle with steel shims (never aluminum) and install a proper bump stop, the longer shackle shouldn't be a problem, right? You can't convince me that an aftermarket reinforced shackle is weaker than the stamped out piece of metal that OEM installs.

Actually, I have already decided to install shackles, I am just wondering what the popular (or not) opinion is. I also haven't decided how much taller to make the shackles, I have made them long enough to go 3 inches taller, although I am not likely to do that. I will probably go between 1 and 2. I also have a suspension lift kit installed, so I am not concerned about an old fatigued spring.

Jerry

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>

The fellows out at

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told me I could, at leastfind out if I was in the ballpark. Plus the fellow over at the local alignment shop said I was within specs. However I managed to NOT get a printout, so I don't know what the Jeep has. 6 degrees is what I'm looking for.
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said the anglefinder would be close enough to find out whether or not I needed their degree shims.

Right, that's what this is all about. But before I mess with the shims, I need to have the springs figured out.

Give me a break, this ain't helping.

Well, as we have been shown castEr angle is important to steering geometry.

Yep, I am well aware of the importance of caster angle. I do alignments myself, and prefer to gain as much caster as possible on every alignment. It makes most vehicles drive much nicer, the exception perhaps being cars without power steering. In the case of Jeeps, it is my opinion (and many have been given) that this lack of caster is the root cause of most "death wobble" concerns. I suppose that you, Jeeper, and I are rebels in the midst of Jeep purists. Real Jeeps wouldn't use a taller shackle, I don't suppose.

Jerry

Understandable. That's much more important than the steering being safe for the Mrs...

I suspect my wife's suspension is sagging, too. ;-) (She never reads the group and will never see that comment.)

(I hope...) ;-)

So, what your are saying is I should take it, first, to a frame alignment place, then throw money at it in the form of a complete suspension upgrade?

So, tell us, where would YOU start?

You too?

Look, we BOUGHT IT THAT WAY. I'm not about to ditch the shackles because that would mean I would ALSO have to ditch the wheels and tires too.

Sure I'd love nothing more than to have the cash on hand to just run out and buy some OEM wheels and tires, JUST SO I CAN GET OEM shackles.

I have to work with what I've got, one step at a time and informed as best as I can.

I didn't really look at

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's website. I wasreferred to them from a ramjaw member. I googled them up, found their phone number, and called them. Since Poison Spyder didn't return my call, I spoke to foothill offroad. Right, I would guess they don't encourage the use of long shackles. But I explained what I have and what my problem was and they explaind where to start, which is a bit more than you have done Bill. So, again, HOW CURVED SHOULD MY SPRINGS BE, Bill?

That's o.k so is mine. (my suspension)

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Christ, I already answered that. About one to two inches of bow in the middle when the wheels are on the ground.

I am thinking that whoever installed your shackle lift ignored the issue of caster, and that a couple of caster wedges might make everything almost right. It is certainly an avenue worth pursuing. "They" recommend new U-bolts when replacing any this old though...

Earle

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